Rockfax Description
Subtle bridging makes this well worth doing. One of the easier routes in the quarry - if you can get off the ground! © Rockfax
FA. M.King Aug/1992.
ICAS Climbing Club , Dancing Ledge Sport Climbs , The Dorset Sub 7a Silly Name Game
User | Date | Notes | ||
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skywalker02 | 2 Jan |
Show βeta
βeta: Great route in an amazing place. Section between first and second bolts seemed like the crux, especially since there are some reachy holds. The sticky-outy jug just above third bolt is wobbly, though I've read it has been like this since 2004 or something - so no worries here really. Final move uses a decent jug on top of a ammonite! | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Great route in an amazing place. Section between first and second bolts seemed like the crux, especially since there are some reachy holds. The sticky-outy jug just above third bolt is wobbly, though I've read it has been like this since 2004 or something - so no worries here really. Final move uses a decent jug on top of a ammonite! |
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95mstanley | 14 Jun, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: Interesting start if you are short until you see a little bit of beta to the left side of the base and a nice traverse across to the second bolt but if drop here with only the first bolt in I could imagine it hurst a little. | ||
Show beta
βeta: Interesting start if you are short until you see a little bit of beta to the left side of the base and a nice traverse across to the second bolt but if drop here with only the first bolt in I could imagine it hurst a little. |
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95mstanley | 14 Jun, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: Interesting start if you are short until you see a little bit of beta to the left side of the base and a nice traverse across to the second bolt but if drop here with only the first bolt in I could imagine it hurst a little. | ||
Show beta
βeta: Interesting start if you are short until you see a little bit of beta to the left side of the base and a nice traverse across to the second bolt but if drop here with only the first bolt in I could imagine it hurst a little. |
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95mstanley | 14 Jun, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: Interesting start if you are short until you see a little bit of beta to the left side of the base and a nice traverse across to the second bolt but if drop here with only the first bolt in I could imagine it hurst a little. | ||
Show beta
βeta: Interesting start if you are short until you see a little bit of beta to the left side of the base and a nice traverse across to the second bolt but if drop here with only the first bolt in I could imagine it hurst a little. |
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simonzxr | 12 May, 2004 |
Show βeta
βeta: the vital hold to get to the third clip is now a bit wobbly (bit which juts out of the vertical crack) but is still sound as a pound to put your full weight on! | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: the vital hold to get to the third clip is now a bit wobbly (bit which juts out of the vertical crack) but is still sound as a pound to put your full weight on! |
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AlexD | 19 Sep, 2001 |
Show βeta
βeta: Probably the easiest route in the quarry. But definately not crap. Low in the grade - if you can get off the ground! Deserves a star in my opinion... | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Probably the easiest route in the quarry. But definately not crap. Low in the grade - if you can get off the ground! Deserves a star in my opinion... |
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Charles Arthur | 21 Mar, 2000 |
Show βeta
βeta: Not crap at all! Subtle bridging makes this well worth doing. Women climb this better than men because they don't try to muscle it. Now has at least 3 bolts to LO. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Not crap at all! Subtle bridging makes this well worth doing. Women climb this better than men because they don't try to muscle it. Now has at least 3 bolts to LO. |
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Grade: 5c ***
(Blacknor Central)