UKC

Climbs 11
Rocktype Granite
Altitude 4013m a.s.l
Faces all

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On the first summit © walts4

Crag features

A massive thumb of rock which is clearly visible from Courmayeur and many points in the Mont Blanc massif. Unfortunately the normal route is adorned with fixed ropes.

To avoid the people going up the normal route, it is best to descend via 3x60m abseils down the South Face. Equipped abseil stations, and possible to descend doing 30m abs. Start abbing from the station in the south side of Point Sella.

Approach notes

Access from the Torino hut/Hellbroner lift. Alternatively walk from the Midi station and bivy comfortably at the Col du Geant.

The couloir leading up to the Salle à Manger becomes very dangerous in the afternoon due to the combination of the afternoon sun and the scores of people descending it. Try to avoid it between 10am and 7pm.

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Climbs at this crag

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