Loading Notifications...

Climbs 184
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 531m a.s.l
Faces N

View Stats

Kate Bomphrey in the zone on Madre Salvaje 7c Desplomilandia © Mark Brightwell

Crag features

The magnificent escarpment to the north of the gorge known as Desplomilandia is one of the most important areas near El Chorro. This superb cliff is perched above some beautiful (artificial) lakes and has magnificent views which give it a very different atmosphere to the hustle and bustle of El Chorro, Alora and the Gorge area. The climbing is excellent and the spread of route styles and grades make it an essential venue for most visitors. It also has the huge bonus of mostly facing due north, which makes it an attractive option when it gets hot and the main Frontales cliffs are baking.

Desplomilandia is higher and more exposed than the crags nearer to El Chorro, and all of the sectors get a lot of shade. If things become too hot elsewhere, Desplomilandia is a haven of coolness and consequently tends to get quite popular. In the cooler months you can often still climb here, though a big belay jacket is advised. There is some seepage after prolonged rainfall, and climbing in the rain is possible at both El Triangulo and Bueno Sombra. There is no source of drinking water nearby.

Approach notes

From El Chorro, cross the dam, turn right and follow a narrow winding road uphill out of the gorge for about 5km to a T-junction. Turn right and follow the road past lakes, a tunnel and a bar (El Quiosco). Cross a dam and pass through a village. A few kilometres further, after crossing another dam, follow signs for Antequera. The first crags appear on your right shortly after passing a couple of very large quarries. The parking places are at the base of a dirt track. The quickest access to all sectors is by walking back along the road and taking a small path on the left, from where various paths reach each sector. El Triangulo and El Cable can also be accessed by a gentle (but slightly longer) walk up the dirt track opposite the parking. This track used to be driveable, but is now not passable for cars or vans.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Android and iOS devices.


Guidebooks

Spain : El Chorro

A guidebook to the superb climbing around the village of El Chorro and the famous gorge. Great coverage of the sport climbing on the magnificent crags above the village and in the central gorge. Also includes a number of excellent outlying areas.
More info
There are no comments from visitors to this crag.
Login as Existing User to add your comments

Climbs at this crag

Beta
Name Grade Stars Type Logs Partner Ascents
These climbs you have climbed clean.
These climbs you have climbed by seconding or top-roping.
These climbs you have Dogged.
These climbs you Did not Finish.
Climbs are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate. Climbs can't be verified by a crag moderator, and they need more information to confirm it. Climbs are no longer climbable.

Moderators Updates to this page are checked by a UKC volunteer funsized