UKC

84m, 5 pitches. A good climb to the right of Hiawatha.
1. 30mts 4b. Climb easy slabs, and then tricky twin heather grooves to a holly in a niche.
2. 9mts. Go left to a flake and up to the Great Terrace.
3. 15mts 5b. The crux pitch. Climb a crack at the right end of a little wall. move right around a corner and up spikes until it is possible to move back left onto the wall then up a crack to a spike belay.
4. 9mts 4a. up a crack in the mossy slab to a large belay.
5. 21mts 5a. Ascend left along a rising traverse to a scoop. back to the crack above a small overhang a finish in a fine exposed position.

C J Mortlock, P M Hutchinson 23/Apr/1959.

Ticklists

North Wales Rock Graded List , Glyn's North Wales mid-grade ticklist

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User Date Notes
soph 22 Jul, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Great route. Deserves more traffic. For last pitch climb up and place a couple of runners before following line of foot holds left until it is possible to reach jugs above which lead up and right into crack system. Climbed in 3 pitches. Linking pitches 1&2 made a 50m pitch. Description above for pitch 2 as 9m is wrong more like 20m 4c.
Show beta
βeta: Great route. Deserves more traffic. For last pitch climb up and place a couple of runners before following line of foot holds left until it is possible to reach jugs above which lead up and right into crack system. Climbed in 3 pitches. Linking pitches 1&2 made a 50m pitch. Description above for pitch 2 as 9m is wrong more like 20m 4c.

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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 22
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 22
Votes cast 20
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Brant Direct

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Clogwyn y Grochan)

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