UKC

Rockfax Description
A variation on The Mole. The main pitch is particularly photogenic and has wild climbing.
1) 4a, 27m. Same as The Mole. Move up and right to a grassy ledge. Gain the slab above and traverse right to a large flake on the next grass bay.
2) 5a, 24m. Climb the flake and then scuttle left to a vertical rib and climb this with difficulty. Continue right across the diagonal slab passing a thread in the groove - same as The Mole to here. Hand traverse left in a mind blowing position out around the arete with memorable moves to gain a small ledge and peg. Move left to easier ground and wander up to a flake belay. Take care with rope management on this pitch, especially at the top.
3) 4c, 22m. Move up and right to gain the arete and take a left-slanting crack that undulates its way up to a small ledge. Then tackle the short wall above to the top. © Rockfax

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High E1
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High HVS
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High VS
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High 5b
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High 5a
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High 4c
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Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Not Set
Route of Interest
Merlin Direct

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Craig Bwlch y Moch (Tremadog))

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