A short and pleasing route up and over the nose of Dinas Mot. The gully is tricky and you need at least 2 x 50m ropes to descend the west gully by abseil. This requires a knowledge of climbing rope work skills and should not be underestimated.
Approach from the Cromlech Boulders by following the short path directly towards the characteristic nose, then over to below the gully on its right-hand side.
1) The initial step is the crux and is hard in the damp (which it often is) and is best done to the right of the actual gully. Head back left to the base of the main gully. Above this it is more straight forward, reaching open grassy ledges at the top.
Descent - You can abseil back down the gully on 2 x 60m ropes which is the safest descent. If you only have 2 x 50m ropes then walk over the top to another fixed abseil point on the edge of the eastern gully and abseil here. The eastern gully is loose - take care not to dislodge rocks. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
One of the descents from the top of the Nose, usually wet at the bottom so advisable to abseil.
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