Restricted Access
An SSSI and a Special Area Of Conservation, the vegetation in the gorge area is especially important. Among the rare species to be found in the area are Scarce Turf-moss, Tunbridge Filmy-fern, Deratocarpon miniatum and Rock Fingerwort. The rock face and exposures are also nationally important geological features. Vegetation clearance and modification of the rock faces is to be avoided without prior consent from Natural Resources Wales (NRW) and the clearance of trees and undergrowth has in the past has led to the real threat of access restrictions.
While NRW manage the North Side of the River, the South Side is privately owned and the land owner has stated that up to 6 local climbers may climb on the south side of the river. We ask climbers to respect this and to help improve relations by keeping the area tidy.
Rockfax Description
A classic with plenty of varied moves through the stepped overhangs to finish up a groove in the upper wall. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
A superb route, which (unfairly?) some believe may be Fr7b, rather than the guidebook grade of Fr7b+ (views by voting buttons please). Just right of The Sharp Cereal Professor is the first of two prominent and large holes in the roof. Climb up a slightly cheesy arete to gain the hole and pull through the roof on big buckets. Make an improbable, but quite easy, rock-out right using a sharp mono, to a rest before the next roof. Pull leftwards through this, then quickly move out left to a groove. Climb the groove and finish up the easier slab above.
(A.Sharp, P.Lewis 2pt 00.00.1985)
Martin Crocker, Roy Thomas 15/Apr/1988.
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Dinas Rock
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Ravenclaw
Grade: 7b+ ***
(Minchin Hole)