Rockfax Description
(The King has Spoken) A major undertaking that weaves up the huge crest of the buttress.
1) N6+, 40m. A 12m wall leads to a cracked groove.
2) N6-, 50m. A cracked wall leads to a wall on the right.
3) N5+, 35m. A crack in a groove is followed by a long traverse to the left.
4) N6+, 40m. A wall leads into a groove. Go up this - often wet.
5) N5, 50m. Climb the grassy ramp trending left - loose rock.
6) N6-, 40m. A groove in the steep wall above the stance.
7) N6+, 50m. Climb the cracked wall into a groove.
8) N6, 40m. Trend right though the roof then climb a groove and the wall above.
9) N5+, 40m. The left-facing groove and face above. (An abseil escape is possible over on the right from this belay).
10) N6, 45m. A wall leads to a groove on the left.
11) N7-, 20m. A groove with a thin crack in the back - the crux.
12) N6, 50m. A crack leads into a groove on the left.
13) N6-, 50m. The wall on the right leads to a groove left of a huge block.
14) N5, 40m. A ramp gains a wall which leads to the top. © Rockfax
FA. Stvefer Peter, Schrott Hannes (Italy) 7.7.2011 07/Jul/2011.
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| mattjoynson | 30 Aug, 2022 |
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βeta: Rockfax topo line is pretty bang on for once - keep your wits about you and maybe do bare blåbære first to look across and spy out the tricky route finding up the groove off the grassy ramp. Easy to miss the start of this pitch (pitch 6). Abseil line in the topo is not particularly well marked, the first 6 are all a bit off. follow your nose and you should spot them all though. We had to downclimb a bit from the end of the ninth abseil which almost got us to the ground. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Rockfax topo line is pretty bang on for once - keep your wits about you and maybe do bare blåbære first to look across and spy out the tricky route finding up the groove off the grassy ramp. Easy to miss the start of this pitch (pitch 6). Abseil line in the topo is not particularly well marked, the first 6 are all a bit off. follow your nose and you should spot them all though. We had to downclimb a bit from the end of the ninth abseil which almost got us to the ground. |
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| Ciaranunderscoretolan | 25 Aug, 2022 |
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βeta: Abseiling down (especially in the dark) takes some decent tat finding skills. All the tat is good just tricky to find. Definitely preferable to ridge scramble imo | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Abseiling down (especially in the dark) takes some decent tat finding skills. All the tat is good just tricky to find. Definitely preferable to ridge scramble imo |
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Borr i Bekkmørtna
Grade: n7- ***
(Merraflestinden)