UKC

38m.

Rockfax Description
Brilliant and unlikely climbing which is almost a sport route. Climb straight up the wall to a solid (non-yew) tree. Harder moves lead up to a flake. Pull up then make a foot-scrabbling fingery move rightwards up positive pockets to better holds. Move up past the old yew tree to a fixed belay on a tree above. © Rockfax

FA. Paul Nunn Jeff Morgan (1 sling) 1969 1970s.

Ticklists

Ultimate E1 ticklist , Chris Jackson’s 100 Classic Limestone Climbs , Peak District Limestone Trad

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User Date Notes
Ignas Va 23 May Show βeta
βeta: 2023-05-21: the Yew tree at the abseil point is dead and it seems that it has been so for a couple of years already. Bordeline sketchy. Would advice to not pull outwards on it or swing about. Good adventure combined with the death blocks.
βeta?
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βeta: 2023-05-21: the Yew tree at the abseil point is dead and it seems that it has been so for a couple of years already. Bordeline sketchy. Would advice to not pull outwards on it or swing about. Good adventure combined with the death blocks.
SteveJC94 11 Jun, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: As mentioned below, there are lots of loose blocks by the dead Yew Tree. One of these is about the size of a toaster and could do with trundling on a quiet day.
βeta?
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βeta: As mentioned below, there are lots of loose blocks by the dead Yew Tree. One of these is about the size of a toaster and could do with trundling on a quiet day.
SP 20 Jul, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: As noted below, the area around the old yew tree is unstable, it seems that there is a lot of material in there that could come out with relatively little persuasion. It is possible to cross this to the anchor at the tree above, but a lot of care needed- there are several large blocks that are moving.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: As noted below, the area around the old yew tree is unstable, it seems that there is a lot of material in there that could come out with relatively little persuasion. It is possible to cross this to the anchor at the tree above, but a lot of care needed- there are several large blocks that are moving.
orangesmartie61 22 Sep, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: There are dangerously loose blocks left of the dead yew tree on the ramp to the belay. Also the insitu threads are very old, most can be rethreaded on route except the one at the crux.
βeta?
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βeta: There are dangerously loose blocks left of the dead yew tree on the ramp to the belay. Also the insitu threads are very old, most can be rethreaded on route except the one at the crux.
Alan James - Rockfax 25 Apr, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Superb climbing. The higher tree belay is solid.
βeta?
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βeta: Superb climbing. The higher tree belay is solid.
Chris the Tall 16 Jul, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Great climbing on clean rock. Virtually a clip-up due to the threads. Long reach helps.
βeta?
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βeta: Great climbing on clean rock. Virtually a clip-up due to the threads. Long reach helps.
John Alcock 31 May, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Fun, Ardeche style climbing. The crux move right is pushing 6a is you have a short reach. The crux threads are not re-threadable on the lead, so the route will become scary as they wear out.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Fun, Ardeche style climbing. The crux move right is pushing 6a is you have a short reach. The crux threads are not re-threadable on the lead, so the route will become scary as they wear out.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Dovedale

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Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 59
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 61
Votes cast 58
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Redpoint
Ground Up
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
The Tippler

Grade: E1 5b ***
(Stanage Popular)

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