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38m.

Rockfax Description
Brilliant and unlikely climbing which is almost a sport route. Climb straight up the wall to a solid (non-yew) tree. Harder moves lead up to a flake. Pull up then make a foot-scrabbling fingery move rightwards up positive pockets to better holds. Move up past the old yew tree to a fixed belay on a tree above. © Rockfax

FA. Paul Nunn Jeff Morgan (1 sling) 1969 1970s.

Ticklists

Ultimate E1 ticklist

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User Date Notes
SP 20 Jul Show βeta
βeta: As noted below, the area around the old yew tree is unstable, it seems that there is a lot of material in there that could come out with relatively little persuasion. It is possible to cross this to the anchor at the tree above, but a lot of care needed- there are several large blocks that are moving.
βeta?
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βeta: As noted below, the area around the old yew tree is unstable, it seems that there is a lot of material in there that could come out with relatively little persuasion. It is possible to cross this to the anchor at the tree above, but a lot of care needed- there are several large blocks that are moving.
orangesmartie61 22 Sep, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: There are dangerously loose blocks left of the dead yew tree on the ramp to the belay. Also the insitu threads are very old, most can be rethreaded on route except the one at the crux.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: There are dangerously loose blocks left of the dead yew tree on the ramp to the belay. Also the insitu threads are very old, most can be rethreaded on route except the one at the crux.
Alan James - UKC and UKH 25 Apr, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Superb climbing. The higher tree belay is solid.
βeta?
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βeta: Superb climbing. The higher tree belay is solid.
Chris the Tall 16 Jul, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Great climbing on clean rock. Virtually a clip-up due to the threads. Long reach helps.
βeta?
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βeta: Great climbing on clean rock. Virtually a clip-up due to the threads. Long reach helps.
John Alcock 31 May, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Fun, Ardeche style climbing. The crux move right is pushing 6a is you have a short reach. The crux threads are not re-threadable on the lead, so the route will become scary as they wear out.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Fun, Ardeche style climbing. The crux move right is pushing 6a is you have a short reach. The crux threads are not re-threadable on the lead, so the route will become scary as they wear out.

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 56
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 58
Votes cast 54
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Redpoint
Ground Up
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest

Lime Street Direct

Grade: E1 5c ***
(Willersley Castle Rocks)