Climbs 53
Rocktype Chalk
Faces SE
Groove on © David Barlow
Crag features
Mostly steep serious multi-pitch trad chalk routes. Climbing is with axes/crampons, and protection is primary with warthogs that need a lump hammer to place them. Placing them takes time, effort, and two hands, so clipping to your axes and weighting them is generally considered ethically ok. The area is covered in the 2008 CC Sandstone guide however many of the routes have changed form or sometimes fallen down so this is a crag for the adventurous. The area is largely tidal.
Note that bird bans commence on 1st Feb for place on some sections of the cliffs (see BMC link below).
It is essential that you contact the coastguard before and after climbing. Their number is 01304 210008.
Approach notes
It is essential that you contact the coastguard before and after climbing. Their number is 01304 210008.
Note that Dover North has a separate BMC Access page also with bird bans.
Access Advice
The stretch of cliffs between Dover and Kingsdown is owned by the National Trust and designated as a Site of Special Scientific Interest and Special Area of Conservation. West of the 'zig zag' path descent route, climbing is banned year round due to security concerns from Dover Port (in reality this affects only one route, 'The One way Valve').
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 February to 31 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
Between 'Sentiera Luminosa' and 'The Verdant Tube' inclusively, climbing is restricted due to nesting peregrines between 1st March and 31st August. Between 'Some Like it Hot' and 'The Tube' inclusively, climbing is restricted due to nesting ravens between 1st Feb and 31st August
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Climbs at this crag
| Name | Grade | Stars | Type | Logs | Partner Ascents |
|---|
These climbs you have climbed by seconding or top-roping.
These climbs you have Dogged.
These climbs you Did not Finish.
Climbs are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate. Climbs can't be verified by a crag moderator, and they need more information to confirm it. Climbs are no longer climbable.
Moderators Updates to this page are checked by a UKC volunteer Big Lee