At UKC we are all climbers and we understand the strong urge to be outdoors as the weather is finally improving. Please proceed with caution though.
Altitude 499m a.s.l
The stupendous Great Buttress © andybirtwistle
Dovestone Tor is the most significant of a series of outcrops overlooking the flooded Derwent valley. It is well worth a visit if you want to escape the crowds. Having said that, nice summer weekends can be surprisingly busy up here nowadays. The cliff is a long west-facing wall riddled with many circular holes. The rock can be dirty, especially after rain, but the outlook is as fine as any cliff in the Peak and sunny afternoons spent here can be enthralling with superb views out into the wilderness of Bleaklow. Developments in the 1990s increased the number of routes listed here markedly, though many of the climbs done at this time will have been climbed in the past but were never recorded.
Dovestone Tor is situated high above Ladybower Reservoir. There are two main approaches:
1) Cutthroat Bridge (50 mins walk). Park in the lay-by on the A57 above Cutthroat Bridge, or in the bigger pull-off further up the hill if this is full. From the bridge, pick up one of two paths up to the crest of the moor, where a right turn leads past some good bouldering, to the Tor.
2) Foulstone Delf near the Strines Inn (40 mins walk). Park on the bend opposite the gated track and follow it past the shooting lodge and up to the crest of the ridge, then turn left (south) onto the flagged path which leads to Dovestone Tor, Back Tor is to the right at the junction. WARNING - Both parking areas, especially Foulstone Delf are visited regularly by thieves. Leave nothing in your car.
Note there is no longer any parking at the start of the path just north of Strines. There is space for 4 or 5 cars 1km further north on the right-hand side of the road (Hall Lane, SK 227909).
|The walk from Cut Throat bridge is longer, but an easier angle with good views. If you are approaching the crag for the first time from this direction, it is probably easier to walk along the top on the good path to the northern end of the crag, and then drop down to the first buttress. The 'path' under the crag at the southern end (White Tor) isn't as good and the buttresses are well spread out.
Nick Smith - UKC - 31/Jul/08
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