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Climbs 166
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 499m a.s.l
Faces W

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The stupendous Great Buttress © andybirtwistle

Crag features

Dovestone Tor is the most significant of a series of outcrops overlooking the flooded Derwent valley. It is well worth a visit if you want to escape the crowds. Having said that, nice summer weekends can be surprisingly busy up here nowadays. The cliff is a long west-facing wall riddled with many circular holes. The rock can be dirty, especially after rain, but the outlook is as fine as any cliff in the Peak and sunny afternoons spent here can be enthralling with superb views out into the wilderness of Bleaklow. Developments in the 1990s increased the number of routes listed here markedly, though many of the climbs done at this time will have been climbed in the past but were never recorded.

Approach notes

Dovestone Tor is situated high above Ladybower Reservoir. There are two main approaches:

1) Cutthroat Bridge (50 mins walk). Park in the lay-by on the A57 above Cutthroat Bridge, or in the bigger pull-off further up the hill if this is full. From the bridge, pick up one of two paths up to the crest of the moor, where a right turn leads past some good bouldering, to the Tor.

2) Foulstone Delf near the Strines Inn (40 mins walk). Park on the bend opposite the gated track and follow it past the shooting lodge and up to the crest of the ridge, then turn left (south) onto the flagged path which leads to Dovestone Tor, Back Tor is to the right at the junction. WARNING - Both parking areas, especially Foulstone Delf are visited regularly by thieves. Leave nothing in your car.

Note there is no longer any parking at the start of the path just north of Strines. There is space for 4 or 5 cars 1km further north on the right-hand side of the road (Hall Lane, SK 227909).

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Android and iOS devices.


Guidebooks

Eastern Grit

Updated and expanded edition of the award-winning Peak Grit East. Covers all the best routes on the eastern Gritstone edges of the Peak District - Wharncliffe, Rivelin, Dovestone Tor, Bamford, Stanage, Burbage North, Higgar Tor, Burbage South, Millstone, Lawrencefield, Yarncliffe, Froggatt, Curbar, Baslow, Gardoms, Birchen, Chatsworth, Cratcliffe, Black Rocks
More info

Peak Bouldering

The Peak Bouldering Rockfax is a massive book covering a huge area including all the main bouldering venues of the Peak District. It includes many more low-grade problems than have ever been documented before including 17 circuits with problems at V0+ 5a and under, and a further 21 circuits with problems at V2 5c and below.
More info
The walk from Cut Throat bridge is longer, but an easier angle with good views. If you are approaching the crag for the first time from this direction, it is probably easier to walk along the top on the good path to the northern end of the crag, and then drop down to the first buttress. The 'path' under the crag at the southern end (White Tor) isn't as good and the buttresses are well spread out.
Nick Smith - UKC - 31/Jul/08
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Climbs at this crag

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