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Climbs 118
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 453m a.s.l
Faces NW

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Nasal Butress on a Perfect Spring Day © Kaiser999

Crag features

Not to be confused with its even more remote namesake in the Eastern Peak, this fine cliff has a good selection of routes and is rarely busy, the flog to get there being the main reason the place stays so quiet. It faces west and northwest and is at its best on warm summer evenings when the many lower grade climbs can be enjoyed to the full.

Approach notes

Park at the Binn Green car park just off the A635, descend to the road, cross over the dam and, either follow the stream to the tunnel then make a steep direct ascent to the cliff via the trackless slope, or do it direct.

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Guidebooks

Western Grit

The 2009 edition of the award-winning guidebook to Staffordshire, Kinder, Bleaklow, Chew, Lancashire and Cheshire areas covered with photo-topos and descriptions.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Over the Moors (2012)
On Peak Rock (2003)
Moorland Gritstone - Chew Valley (1988)

Out of print:
Western Grit (2003)
Very green the day after rain in August. Shame as it made several of the routes I fancied quite slimy. The steep last 10 mins certainly warms you up and would recommend leaving until the evening. Answer Crack and Nasal Buttress were good and will try Mammoth Buttress when not Kermit-like!
eldre070 - 26/Aug/13
Had a great day- avoiding the forecast heat.It was particularly pleasant late pm when the sun came around and gave some gentle warmth- abit gritty in places we just climbed some nice easy lines- a great chilled day out.
bobpilgrem - 23/May/12
Had an excellent day. We had the whole crag to ourselves. Some really excellent low grade climbs. Very grippy no real polishing!
flapjack_franky - 06/Sep/10
Excellent rock, nice and dry even after a full day of rain beforehand. The slog up the hill is a lung burster for the unfit. The best approach from the car park is to stay on the left hand side of the streamway and follow it up to the tunnel, cross the bridge then follow the path to the stile before heading straight up. I'll never complain about the walk up to Wimberry again after this.
RankAmateur - 22/Jun/09
This is your secret playground as it is not uncommon to have the whole crag to yourself. Gets good sun, great crag for a full day or evenings bouldering/soloing. As with most moorland grit, treat the walk in as a warm up. Fine views and nice sunsets. Good rough natural grit. For fun give the left to right girdle traverse a go, HVS 5a "Whalebone" a fine summers evening solo! - followed by a few well earned pints down at the Clarence!
Phil Davies - 17/Feb/05
Why on earth do so few people climb here? It's great! The walk in isn't that bad really.
Steff - 05/Sep/04
Despite getting the evening sun, much of it is fairly green at the moment, perhaps due to the pathetic summer this year. Some of the slabs could do with a good brush. An alternative approach for E1 climbers would be to slog up (what did you expect, this is Chew...) to the Duckstone and tick The Jug, a good committing roof climb, en route, before bouncing merrily around the moor to the top of Dovestones.
Fiend - 02/Sep/04
Dovestones Edge - the link to BMC access notes seems to link to another crag, not Dovestones Edge.
Nick Taylor - 10/Sep/03
This crag is accessible without a car by bus from Manchester. The moderately long walk-in seems to put people off, which is fine by me. Had the crag to myself one Sunday whereas I\'d guess the eastern edges were a tad busier! The rock is a bit dirty in places on the easier grooves. And watch out for the loose block on the Severe 4b (forgotten the name) at the far left of the crag. Otherwise excellent.
Rob - 25/Mar/02
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Climbs at this crag

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