Altitude 26m a.s.l
quick drying, stunning views out to rue penisula, decent is via steep gullies on left hand side of both areas looking in, with care.
park in a small turn off just after glen mamma viaduct just before sharp left hand bend. follow track up and over railway tunnel up, once out of the intial forest, crag can be seen below the main summit, 2 routes on red wall with large chimney and chockstone at its base, 1 route on the red slab just beyond and 1 route on a an arete 50m below the red slabs with two right anglend corners at 8m. Approach takes 35mins, longer in summer when bracken is in full swing, quite ticky!
SMC Note in 2017 - Noel Williams found an easy and very direct way up to the crag with Arisaig Arete which used a small tunnel under the railway (unmarked on OS maps). The crag is at NM 7301 8480.
The tunnel is the larger one to the right of where the stream comes through. It would be possible to go up the one with the stream but rather unpleasant!
|If wanting to avoid head high bracken for the Gleann Mama Slabs in summer then follow the approach notes in Highland Outcrops South for Glaic Ruadh to the ridge and follow this until an easy descent to the slabs can be made on the right.
These crags deserve much more traffic with a good spread of routes and all around the same approach time for the middle and upper tiers of Polldubh (i.e. rarely more than 30 minutes.)
Nathan Adam - 15/Jul/19
|Noel Williams found this book, The Guide to Arisaig and the Road to the Isles by Joan M.
Scudds ,1977. And an extract from p14, by Norman Tennant. The routes have yet to be
DRUIM FIACLACH, NM 735 850, is an attractive looking little peak seen from the road
alongside Loch-nan-Uamh. It is a fine viewpoint for the Rois Bheinn group south, Ben Nevis
east, and the small Isles to the west. Eilean an Each, the islet north of Muck shows up
particularly well. It may be approached either from the corner 800 yards east of the Prince's
Cairn (Cuildarroch) NM 726 843, where a track leads under the railway to the bealach (north
of Glac Ruadh; or directly north from Glen Mama farm.
The rock is very sound on the open slabs and faces— on a dry, sunny day reminiscent of
gabbro at its best. It is probably a basic rock that has been through several igneous stages,
much folded with many quartz dykes.
The face is in three tiers. The lowest provides:
Coxcomb 60' VD. The first ten feet seem inordinately steep, but don't be lured to the right.
Above, the overhanging steps are good incut holds, and on the final crest one may emulate
Blondin! Seen from Glac Ruadh this ridge presents a cox-comb like form.
The middle tier is divided by a diagonal heather ledge, running from bottom left to top right.
To the right hand edge is Raven's Slab, 150' S. The first pitch is a slab leading to the right
hand edge with adequate (just) incut holds. Then follows a steep section up small quartzite
knobs and side pressure holds to a 10' heather traverse right, to a cave. Exit left up a steep
short chimney with heather cornice.
Contorta 200' HS
On the uppermost tier is the steep topmost slab seen so well from the road by the Prince's
Cairn. It has a pronounced pinkish blush discernible from a distance. Close to, the strata are
seen to twist like the grain in Birdseye Maple.
On the slab the holds are fine, and they become finer and finer, till one is finally greeted at
the top by hawthorn and briar roses. A steep chimney leads to within 50' of the highest point.
One should not be lured into the depths of the chimney where more savage thorns lie in wait
for the timerous!
arose - 06/Jan/19
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