UKC

Climbs 249
Rocktype Gneiss
Altitude 251m a.s.l
Faces W

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Eriophorum angustifolim f6B © Michael Cassidy

Crag features

Lots of interesting lines following well protected cracks. Most routes 1 pitch.
Best visited in the afternoon to get the sun.
Must Do Trad : Dracula E3

Must do Boulders: Eriophorum angustifolium f6B, Lost and Found 6A+, Mutprobe 5+ ,The Untrained Ear f7A+,The Settler f7C, The Jabberwocky 6C/7A

Also see the two editions of Scottish Bouldering. Vimeo or Youtube are the best source for videos of lines with some older vids on Flickr (!!)

Bring a steelwire brush to help maintain these blocs if you have one! The blocs in the wood always need a scrub/brush for pine needles

 

Near here is also Pinnacle Crag (listed separately in the Database) on the opposite side of the road to the main crag which offers generally easier routes on very clean rock. Normally dries quickly from the wind.

 

Access Advice

Bird Breeding Season March to August:

Look out for any nesting birds, especially Peregrine, Kestrel and other raptors nesting on the crag. Peregrine have been seen using the area and it is a historic nest site but disturbance is leading to nest failures (as seen at Brin crag). Be aware of this and avoid any areas being used by nesting birds in general. Refere to Wildlife and Countryside Act 1981 if in any doubt.

 

There are some well worth doing climbs here. It's true that midgies can be a problem in the wrong conditions but pick the right afternoon or sunny evening and a great time can be had on the starred routes. The other negative comments do not do it justice!
atibbs - 30/Jun/15
Last time i was here it was midge hell never agen haha never had and ticks tho unlucky guys :P
Keo - 26/Feb/13
A laugh if you like slippy mossy boulders and twisted ankles
laura_ed - 13/Mar/08
nice crag pulled lots of ticks out of my bum when i was there last
dave - 04/Aug/05
Midge and tick infested Hell.
JoHNY - 13/Apr/05
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Climbs at this crag

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