UKC

A fiercely technical and physically exhausting climb - you better love crimping, kneebars and pullin' freakin' hard, because that more or less sums it up. As for "Nosferatu" (E8 6c), climb the corner to the base of the overhang. Place a variety of small cams and commit to the steepness - if you find the kneebar, you can place a couple of bomber cams to protect the final crux! Continue through the overhang into bicep sapping undercuts (F7A+) , leading you into the final crux, a technical fingery overhanging wall (F7C+). Top-out by mantling the dome at the peak of the runout - the whip from the top was taken and is safe (a right-hand offset cam is useful as a directional - place from the kneebar at crux 1).

Robbie Phillips 04/Oct/2021.

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Hardest Scottish Trad

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