A fiercely technical and physically exhausting climb - you better love crimping, kneebars and pullin' freakin' hard, because that more or less sums it up. As for "Nosferatu" (E8 6c), climb the corner to the base of the overhang. Place a variety of small cams and commit to the steepness - if you find the kneebar, you can place a couple of bomber cams to protect the final crux! Continue through the overhang into bicep sapping undercuts (F7A+) , leading you into the final crux, a technical fingery overhanging wall (F7C+). Top-out by mantling the dome at the peak of the runout - the whip from the top was taken and is safe (a right-hand offset cam is useful as a directional - place from the kneebar at crux 1).

Robbie Phillips 04/Oct/2021.


Hardest Scottish Trad


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Guidebooks for Duntelchaig

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High E11
Mid E11
Low E11
High E10
Mid E10
Low E10
High E9
Mid E9
Low E9
High 7b
Mid 7b
Low 7b
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
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