A series of testing pitches up the left-hand side of the buttress. It is slow to dry, vegetated/dirty in places and needs a long dry spell to come into condition. Start 20m left of the well-worn belay ledge of Eagle Front.
1) 30m. Ascend rock and vegetation to a belay on grassy ledges at the base of an alcove.
2) 5b, 36m. Climb a steep crack to a ledge and then move right across a slab to below a flake-crack. Climb this, passing some nasty looking flakes, to an easier groove that leads to a belay shared with Eagle Front.
3) 4b, 10m. Traverse left to a belay on a grassy ledge.
4) 5b, 20m. Head leftwards up grooves and then up right to a tiny ledge. Make some moves up and then traverse right to a well defined groove. Climb the groove which leads to a belay on the right.
5) 4b, 35m. Follow the rib above before moving left to finish up an arete left of a large grassy groove. © Rockfax
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