Climbs 6
Rocktype Granite
Altitude 554m a.s.l
Faces NE
Crag features
Small but conspicuous granite slab on the north-east slope of Carn Eilrig. As previously suggested, tricky to get to, but some good granite single pitch climbs to be had in the lower to mid grades. Research on the net hasn’t shown any previous climbing here, but it seems unlikely that no one has been exploring here previously despite the approach. The author went there during 3 weeks of hot dry weather when black, mossy areas suggest that it’s normally damper than were found on that day. The crag is divided into the main area, “Rothiemurchus Slab”which is roughly 25m high at about 75° and textured with various blind cracks and flakes. Towards the southern side is the “Lairig Slab” which tapers between 3m and 10m at 60°, is more broken and consequently with easier lines. In between is the “Dragonfly Slab”, a narrower section at around 65°. These left hand slabs are the areas that have so far been explored.
Approach notes
Not that remote but a bit of a bugger to get to. Best approached from Rothiemurchus Lodge from where its about 2.5km over some tricky ground which may be awful after wet weather. Follow the track to Rothiemurchus lodge then take the path right in front of the buildings loosely south which passes close to a small reservoir (drinking water source). After about 1200m where you join the Lairig Ghru path, drop steeply to the burn which may be difficult to cross. Once over climb steeply on one of the deer tracks to gain flatter ground and head west for about 800m across boggy ground.
No Access Issues
Not that remote but a bit of a bugger to get to. Probably best to bike to the junction on the Lairig Ghru path from Rothiemurchus Lodge, and go cross-country from there.
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Climbs at this crag
| Name | Grade | Stars | Type | Logs | Partner Ascents |
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