Altitude 614m a.s.l
Alan James on Jaque a la jaca (6c) El Picayo © Mark Glaister
El Picayo is a tall face of good quality rock with some long routes. It has been around for years but has seen little traffic recently despite most of the routes being re-bolted. The quality of the climbing is good and there is a good spread of grades although not much in the green spot category. The routes do need to see a bit of traffic though since some have become slightly overgrown. It is a good crag to combine with a day at Montessa.
The crag is a south-facing sun-trap with no shade on offer. It can get very hot here but could be just the place on a crisp winter day. There will be no dry climbing in the rain and it may get breezy if there is a wind blowing.
Drive to Moixent on the A35. From the centre of the town, pick up a road to the south signed to Aielo de Malferit. This road leads up and out of the village. After about 5km you arrive at a bend where there is a clear view of the crag high above. Continue around the back of the crag to find a small track on the right (6.2km from the centre of Moxient). Drive up this track and park as best you can so as not to block the track. Continue walking up the track to a large building at the top. The direct path to the crag is hard going so try and find a path on the far side of the building leading rightwards up the hill. This swings around at a high level over the first rocky cliff (which has a few routes) and drops down to the main crag.
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