Grossen and Rébuffat's Bernese Oberland: The 100 Most Beautiful Tours , Top quality Alps under 4000m
User | Date | Notes | ||
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John Cuthbert | 17 Sep, 2023 |
Show βeta
βeta: Seriously exciting venture, especially solo. The Englehorner area felt quite intimidating, with plenty of exposure throughout the route and not the most friction positive slab action. Treat it like a trad day. The raps are super well equipped, but as for the long descent scramble to the final rappel, the kindest thing that could be said is that it is not ‘Plaisir’. This is serious terrain, and although well marked, it’s pretty loose with huge fall exposure. I also got peppered multiple times by rockfall from above. The walk in to the hut from Rosenlaui went in a modest 1hour 20, and everyone seems to go this way. The sun also doesn’t come round to 1030am in Sept, and it’s best to be high by then. Thereafter it gets well hot. | ||
Show beta
βeta: Seriously exciting venture, especially solo. The Englehorner area felt quite intimidating, with plenty of exposure throughout the route and not the most friction positive slab action. Treat it like a trad day. The raps are super well equipped, but as for the long descent scramble to the final rappel, the kindest thing that could be said is that it is not ‘Plaisir’. This is serious terrain, and although well marked, it’s pretty loose with huge fall exposure. I also got peppered multiple times by rockfall from above. The walk in to the hut from Rosenlaui went in a modest 1hour 20, and everyone seems to go this way. The sun also doesn’t come round to 1030am in Sept, and it’s best to be high by then. Thereafter it gets well hot. |
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Grade: AD 4c ***
(Lobhörner)