A magnificent route that traces an amazing line up this impressive wall. The line visits places which appear much harder from below but holds appear at just the right moment. It is quite run out in places, but what gear there is tends to be good. Start as for Bridge's Route.
1) 4a, 23m. As for Bridge's Route.
2) 4b, 12m. As for Bridge's Route. Easy to combine these two.
2a) 5a, 32m. A good alternative direct version which is useful if Bridge's Route is busy. Move up right to gain a thin crack that leads to an easing. Step left and climb another thin crack to join pitch 3 midway.
3) 5a, 20m. Climb cracks above the belay to a spike. Follow a line of holds up rightwards across the blank wall to the far edge. Move back left, then up and right on flat holds to a pedestal on the arete and an awkward peg belay.
4) 5b, 12m. Move carefully up the groove above to good gear at half height. Make steeper moves above to gain a sloping grassy ledge and belay.
5) 5b, 20m. Make an exposed traverse out right on a big foot-ledge to better hand-holds. Pull steeply up to a spike with a thread. Make a long pull up left, then run it out back up right on good holds with outrageous exposure to an easing. Move up right into a bay.
6) 4c, 10m. Finish up the undercut flake-crack on the right wall. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Quite bold and exposed. Concerns have been raised regarding a large loose block at the second belay.
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