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6 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A magnificent route that traces an amazing line up this impressive wall. The climbing is never desperate and the line visits places which appear much harder from below but lead you on with holds at just the right moment. It is quite run out in places but what gear there is tends to be good. Start as for Bridge's Route.
1) 4a, 23m. As for Bridge's Route.
2) 4b, 12m. As for Bridge's Route. Easy to combine these two.
2a) 5a, 32m. A good alternative direct version which is useful if Bridge's Route is busy. Move up right to gain a thin crack that leads to an easing. Step left and climb another thin crack to join pitch 3 midway.
3) 5a, 20m. Climb cracks above the belay to a spike. Follow an exposed line of holds up rightwards across the blank wall to the far edge. Move back left, then up and right on flat holds to a pedestal on the arete and an awkward peg belay.
4) 5b, 12m. Move carefully up the groove above to good gear at half height. Make steeper moves above to gain a sloping grassy ledge and belay.
5) 5b, 20m. Make an exposed traverse out right on a big foot ledge to better hand holds. Pull steeply up to a spike with a thread. Make a long pull up left then run it out back up right on good holds with outrageous exposure. Move up right into a bay.
6) 4c, 10m. Finish up the undercut flake-crack on the right wall. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Quite bold and exposed. Concerns have been raised regarding a large loose block at the second belay.


Hard Rock, Victim Of Mathematics' Ticklist of Extreme Justice, Kendal Wall's Best 100 climbs in Britain, Ultimate E2 ticklist, UK Lonely Leads, The BMC 70th Anniversary Ticklist, FRCC Lake District Cover Climbs, UK Holiday Plans, Nuts of Legends, Hard Rock 2020, Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Climbs The Lake District, ROCKFAX Lake District: Top 50, Hard Rock, Bill Birkett (Classic Rock Climbs in the Lake District) Below E3, A Lakeland E2 Odyssey


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High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 60
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 60
Votes cast 59
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Not Set
Route of Interest

The Niche

Grade: E2 5c ***
(Falcon Crag)