UKC

38m. Terrific stuff! Climb up to and through a distinctive, large, eye-shaped rockfall scar; then climb up and right to wide cracks (good gear). Move up boldly leftwards (crux) to below the headwall. Move up onto the headwall and place good wires (with some relief). Climb the line of the crack to the top, via some thoroughly absorbing, sustained 5b climbing.

FA. S.Franklin, D.Targett.

Ticklists

Fairy Cave Quarry Top 20 , Ultimate E3 ticklist , Memorable Climbs , Fairy cave hard stuff

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User Date Notes
badgerjockey 19 Jun Show βeta
βeta: Eddy added a tat and maillon an point near the top
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Eddy added a tat and maillon an point near the top
Zhi Yuan 1 Aug, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Wide cracks at the bottom full of mud and grass, thin crack on the headwall has some mud and grass
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Wide cracks at the bottom full of mud and grass, thin crack on the headwall has some mud and grass
luke43 10 Jun, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Much more and better protected than I had expected
Show beta
βeta: Much more and better protected than I had expected

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Voting
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 48
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 60
Votes cast 59
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Soloed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
DNF
Dogged
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Ahimsa

Grade: E3 5c ***
(Cheddar Gorge South)

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