The BMC has negotiated with the landowner and secured an access agreement, but this is dependent on the continuing responsible behavior of climbers.
Local cavers have an agreement with the landowner to manage recreation in the quarry through the Fairy Cave Management Committee. They have been extremely supportive of climber’s efforts to secure access and without their support it is unlikely we would have been successful. Mark Courtiour (BMC Access Rep) has been co-opted onto the Management Committee but the cavers have overall responsibility for recreational use of the quarry.
Maintaining our good relationship with the cavers is important, as is following a few simple points within our access agreement:
Descents:
Movement around the top of some areas of the quarry can be difficult and local climbers have established abseil descents from all popular areas. Please do not remove these fixtures. Most lower offs/abseil points have been renewed and stakes have been installed above Robs Crack and Lumbar Puncture/Epic Dural. As always with fixed equipment, be sure to thoroughly inspect all parts of an anchor before committing to using it.
Rockfax Description
Start at a small tree at the foot of the diagonal grass strip that divides The Glacis. Move up to a series of cracks that head up to a sapling. From just below the sapling traverse right to cracks and follow these to a grassy finish. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Climb Lorna's Lunch until, just below a sapling, it is possible to stride right into another crack system, which is climbed to saplings.
FA. M.Raine, A.Fewell 04/Jul/2002.
Fairy Cave Quarry Top 20 , Fairy Cave Quarry - 1-3 Star Classic & Hard Rock
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Tzar147 | 16 Apr |
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βeta: Definitely not a stared route. Top 3m is just mud and grass. Minging. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Definitely not a stared route. Top 3m is just mud and grass. Minging. |
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Gyrsaker | 30 Aug, 2021 |
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βeta: The tree used for the belay didn't look sturdy at all to us (a bit mouldy) so backed it up. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: The tree used for the belay didn't look sturdy at all to us (a bit mouldy) so backed it up. |
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