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Climbs 45
Rocktype Rhyolite
Altitude 180m a.s.l
Faces W

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Alan James on The Niche (E2) at Lower Falcon (from the Lake District Climbs Rockfax) © Mike Hutton

Crag features

The Falcon Crags are the first of the major Borrowdale cliffs encountered when travelling along the lakeside road from Keswick. The climbing is steep and intimidating but in general exhilarating, highly rewarding and for the most part on good rock. The crag has two major buttresses divided by a steep gully. The brilliant Lower Falcon has both single and multi-pitch routes, the best in the VS to the mid-E grade range. Upper Falcon is topped by a sheer wall of rock with a classic hard line up its middle, although it is not the easiest of places to get to despite its proximity to the road. The crags have a beautiful outlook and have a big feel about them, offering a worthy alternative to the high crags if they are out of condition.

Approach notes

There are three possible parking areas. The main parking is at the start of the Watendlath road. There is limited parking in an old quarry on the left about 50m after turning off of the lakeside road. A useful alternative is at a lay-by on the lakeside road, but this also fills up very quickly. For Upper Falcon, the parking is at the Ashness Bridge National Trust carpark (fee).

Lower Falcon - From the main carpark take the faint path on the left up and over a stile. Follow the path steeply until it levels out below the right-hand side of the crag. A smaller path leads off through the undergrowth up to the base of the crag. The path meets the base of the crag at two large trees in a shallow bay - this is where the route Dedication Direct starts and is a good reference point for locating the other routes. From the lay-by on the lakeside road, take the footpath that starts at a gap in the wall and follow this until another path is reached. Go right and walk to meet the path at the far right-hand end of the crag (poorer paths head up earlier).

Upper Falcon - Park at the National Trust carpark at Ashness Bridge and follow the Walla Crag footpath (see crag approach for more details).

Access Advice

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

The birds have changed nest site this year and the restriction currently applies to the whole crag.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Android and iOS devices.


Guidebooks

Lake District Climbs

Lake District Climbs provides comprehensive coverage of the very best traditional climbing in the mountains and valleys of English Lake District. The range and variety of climbing available is outstanding, from low-level single-pitch outcrop cragging to long multi-pitch mountain routes. There is something here for climbers of all abilities from experts to those just starting out.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Borrowdale (2016)
Lake District Rock (2015)

Out of print:
Surely "Dry Grasp" should be "Dry Gasp"?
C Witter - 20/Dec/16
Great crag. Some unlikely situations for the grades and a nice outlook. Seems a bit under-climbed and under-starred for how good the routes are.
AliBaxter - 17/Jun/15
this crag is a bit loose!
joe king - 12/Jul/10
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Climbs at this crag

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Name Grade Stars Type Logs Partner Ascents
These climbs you have climbed clean.
These climbs you have climbed by seconding or top-roping.
These climbs you have Dogged.
These climbs you Did not Finish.
Climbs are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate. Climbs can't be verified by a crag moderator, and they need more information to confirm it. Climbs are no longer climbable.
Volunteer to moderate Falcon Crag
We rely on volunteers to moderate their local crags. You would check updates and approve climbs added to the database. It's a very easy job, and all you need is a guidebook and an hour or two each month. [ read more ]