UKC

48m. The route takes the prominent slanting grooves in the centre-right of the wall. Start 6m right of Yellow Wall beneath a block overhang at the base of a corner.
1) 6a, 27m. Climb round the hideous lower roof (crux), then follow the corner and rightward-slanting groove. At 20m, the groove curves back left to a platform and belay.
2) 5c, 21m. Step airily right around an arĂȘte into a groove. Reach the diagonal break (tricky) and move up into the obvious deep crack on the right wall. Muscle up this to the top. A variation finish traverses left into a stepped groove system.

Ticklists

100 best limestone climbs in Britain , CLIMB Mag's Top 100 routes in Britain , Ultimate E3 ticklist , Gower Peninsula - Jeremy Talbot's recommended climbs , But what have you done on South-East Wales Sandstone/Limestone? , The Local Ticklist , Paul Dearden's classic rock climbs

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User Date Notes
islandlynx 21 Oct, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: we accessed it at a lowish high tide in slightly rough seas.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: we accessed it at a lowish high tide in slightly rough seas.
Danmg123 7 Sep, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Clean and solid rock, abseil off a new-looking stake - considering how infrequently this route is done it's in really good nick. Tat on belay ledge is still fairly robust too.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Clean and solid rock, abseil off a new-looking stake - considering how infrequently this route is done it's in really good nick. Tat on belay ledge is still fairly robust too.

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Guidebooks for Fall Bay to Mewslade

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Voting
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 8
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 5
Votes cast 6
Style of Ascent
Lead
Alt Leads
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Ground Up
Flashed (β)
Repeated
Dogged
Not Set
Route of Interest
Power Trap

Grade: E3 5c ***
(Fall Bay to Mewslade)

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