Rockfax Description
Another awesome line that ventures through some impressive terrain, with a healthy smattering of big holds to keep you moving upwards.
1) 6a, 27m. Get the crux out of the way early at the lower roof, then follow the corner and grooves above to a belay ledge on the right.
2) 5c, 21m. Climb the groove on the right of the ledge to gain the crack in the headwall and finish up it.. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
The route takes the prominent slanting grooves in the centre-right of the wall. Start 6m right of Yellow Wall beneath a block overhang at the base of a corner.
1) 6a, 27m. Climb round the hideous lower roof (crux), then follow the corner and rightward-slanting groove. At 20m, the groove curves back left to a platform and belay.
2) 5c, 21m. Step airily right around an arĂȘte into a groove. Reach the diagonal break (tricky) and move up into the obvious deep crack on the right wall. Muscle up this to the top. A variation finish traverses left into a stepped groove system.
100 best limestone climbs in Britain , CLIMB Mag's Top 100 routes in Britain , Ultimate E3 ticklist , Gower Peninsula - Jeremy Talbot's recommended climbs , But what have you done on South-East Wales Sandstone/Limestone? , The Local Ticklist , Paul Dearden's classic rock climbs
User | Date | Notes | ||
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islandlynx | 21 Oct, 2022 |
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βeta: we accessed it at a lowish high tide in slightly rough seas. | βeta? | |
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βeta: we accessed it at a lowish high tide in slightly rough seas. |
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Danmg123 | 7 Sep, 2020 |
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βeta: Clean and solid rock, abseil off a new-looking stake - considering how infrequently this route is done it's in really good nick. Tat on belay ledge is still fairly robust too. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Clean and solid rock, abseil off a new-looking stake - considering how infrequently this route is done it's in really good nick. Tat on belay ledge is still fairly robust too. |
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Grade: E3 5c ***
(Fall Bay to Mewslade)