Climbs 37
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 228m a.s.l
Faces S

View Stats

Font d'axia © simonty1

Crag features

There are a selection of old bolts here which are only 1cm long. They appear to be secluded to the far right hand end of the crag, any of these bolts have a slightly smaller head than normal and what looks like the remains of red paint on them. This doesn't affect the large majority of the routes here.

A small but pleasant crag in a remote-feeling setting, despite only being a short walk from the road. There are only a few climbs here, but, as a good percentage of them are in the lower grades and they are well-bolted, the crag is often quite busy. The routes are fairly steep for their given grades and there is some loose rock around, so a little care is required.

The crag has morning shade and is sheltered from north-easterly winds, making it a fair bet on blowy days. When hot it is a real sun-trap in the afternoons. 

Approach notes

The best approach is from Benissa (N332 and/or AP-7 junction 63 depending on whether you are coming from Calp or the motorway). From here take either the CV-745 via Senija, or the CV-750 via Jalon, to Lliber. Go through Lliber and turn towards Gata de Gorges on the CV-748. Continue for about 4km to a bend in the trees and, opposite a large white house with a turret, is a concrete track that runs northwest (new picture sign of Escalade on main road). Follow this 2km until sign saying 460m to Font (at the old parking spot). Turn right here and go steeply uphill until the road flattens and park in a shady layby on right. Walk another 100m to an obvious track on right leading to the crag.

Bees nest at the far right of the main crag next to El aguila y el loro - march 23
BelleVedere - 15/Mar/23
There are a few trees just below the crag with processionary caterpillar nests in. Maybe of note if you have kids or a dog with you
andrew roach - 21/Jan/23
New route just right Mi Amigo Jasper. Start at the same route but turn right to climb an small overhang. Follow the samll cracks to the same belay that Mi Amigo Jasper. Route completely clean, full rack needed. named "El Impaciente" 4+ 15m.
David Mora - 04/May/12
In my feedback of 3/2/11 I wrote CV waymarks. Of course it should be PV (for paths) and the number is 53.
Paul Horan - 22/Mar/11
I've just been to Font d'Axia. There is room for 3 or 4 cars on the right at the place shown in Rockfax, not on the left. The path is obvious and has a couple of CV waymarks at the start. The new area to the left of the main crag has the routes and grades marked apart from the second from the left. People there were saying that the big groove in the middle, The Future's Bright 6b+? should be 6a+. The actual font where there is plenty of parking is about 400m further along the road, not 100m.
Paul Horan - 03/Feb/11
Didn't see any bees either.
matthewjames - 08/Jul/10
The map in the Rockfax Costa Blanca guidebook is very confusing since the parking spot is on the other side of the road, the trees shown on the map don't stand out and I'm pretty sure the crag should be drawn much further right. Its very easy to drive on and park at the end of the road, which looks much more like the parking spot described on the map but then finding the crag is obviously much harder! We spent 2 hours looking for it! We found it ont the way back after we had given up but by then it was too hot to climb so we came back the next day. Dennis T's description of where the parking spot actually is is good. If you manage to find the crag it is really nice, quite a bit better then described, all the routes listed in the guidebook as trad have now been bolted along with a few other routes which are all marked along with their grades. All the bolts are nice and new and most of the climbs have screwgates fitted at the top which is convenient. I did a nice 6a next to Perell el cacaolat that isn't in the guidebook.
matthewjames - 07/Jul/10
There are a few new climbs on the wall about 150m walk further along to the left. Mis Amigo Jasper, which looks about a 4/5 and El Sueno which is shorter but looks about a 5/6a.
omniscient_penguin - 15/Apr/10
The turn off is signposted Xalo and is at the northern end of the town of Gata. The key thing on the walk in is not to take the track as it would appear from Rockfax, but a small signposted footpath some 20 mts before it, about 100 mts before the font.
Al Evans - 26/Aug/08
Finding the right turn off in Gata requires a bit of guesswork!
mwh - 06/Jan/06
This crag is not easy to find but well worth it for good, modest grade (VS) climbing. Follow the track until you reach an S-bend on a rising slope and park there, just past the new villa Aeubella (sp?. If you reach the small man-made lake you have gone too far. New bolts and lower-offs are good. Dennis T.
Dennis T. - 14/Dec/05
All the routes on this crag have now been fully bolted. No need for wires anymore. Great introductory crag to the costa blanca.
Marts - 17/Nov/05
Login as Existing User to add your comments

Climbs at this crag

Name Grade Stars Type Logs Partner Ascents
Please Login or Register to log routes or add them to your wishlist
These climbs you have climbed clean.
These climbs you have climbed by seconding or top-roping.
These climbs you have Dogged.
These climbs you Did not Finish.
Climbs are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate. Climbs can't be verified by a crag moderator, and they need more information to confirm it. Climbs are no longer climbable.

Moderators Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteers Emma and T-Dog

Loading Notifications...