At UKC we are all climbers and we understand the strong urge to be outdoors as the weather is finally improving. Please proceed with caution though.
Altitude 113m a.s.l
Fighting all the way on the first ascent of Relentless 8B © Aidan Nelson
Old slate quarry. Best routes: "Sorcerer" E1 5b***, "Sorceress"E6 6b*** ( Old aid route, some bolts). [Al Smith] Definitely Not E2 5b * and Saucy E3 5c ** also good. Sorceress apparently de-bolted.
**URGENT UPDATE - PLEASE READ**
During recent years Forest Rock has grown from a small local crag to a popular hub of hard Bouldering. While this has been great for development keep in mind it is based in the village between multiple houses. Unfortunately one of the locals isn't too fond of climbers (or anyone?) being there and making any sort of noise. This has resulted in multiple confrontations over the years and especially during the current pandemic.
To keep track of any issues the Leicestershire Climbs Facebook page has created a post for people to keep track of any issues. If confronted stay polite, stay calm and assess the situation appropriately on whether or not you feel like it's best to leave to avoid potential access issues. And then leave a comment on the following post including date, time and a brief explanation of the situation - https://www.facebook.com/108132692616374/posts/2927450847351197/
Forest Rock is in the centre of Woodhouse Eaves by "The Forest Rock", Public House.. which is now converted to something else [06/06]. Park in old car park just past the war memorial.
Access to the crag is sensitive given that is is very close to nearby houses - residents have in the past confronted climbers and asked them to leave.
Please make a particular effort to be quiet at this crag (especially avoiding shouting and bad language), take all litter home with you and don't use the crag or it's surrounds as a toilet. Keeping a low profile here is a good idea to help develop good realtionships with local residents and avoid access issues in the future.
Two useful links for further info are the online version of the Cicerone Leicestershire Climbs guidebook and the new Leicestershire Climbs website.
|There are an increasing amount of incidents with a uphappy local who lives up on the right here who is not best pleased by the noise from climbers (or anyone?) in this area. Please proceed with caution, stay calm and polite if confronted and keep a recored of day, time and any other relevant information of the incident on the following Facebook Post - https://m.facebook.com/story.php?story_fbid=2927450847351197&id=108132692616374&sfnsn=scwspmo&extid=tsl5uF1DowKtAhYk|
Orrin Coley - 29/May/20
|The majority of the routes here are a grade or two out of my league at the moment, the topo guide on leicsclimbs is hard to follow so i have no idea what to aim for, i would like this venue to be long term project, does anyone have a proper topo???|
Allterraindude - 24/May/18
|I visited the crag a couple of times recently. It's in great condition, and there's a nice grassy landing for the majority of routes outside the cave. The bolts remain intact for the E5 and E6 that come out the cave, but the hangers have been removed!|
JackMetcalfe - 06/Aug/10
|Visited the other day, some guy was boasting of chopping bolts. all the same, great small crag on a sunny day if your local.|
Gazleah - 03/Mar/09
|Cool little crag in an unusual village setting. Despite looking green all the main routes are in fine condition in dry weather and the good sharp little holds are all clean. An evening leading the mid-grade routes (all good - Sorceror is notably substantial for a small crag) followed by refreshments in the pleasant Pear Tree Inn should put a smile on one's face.|
Fiend - 22/Jun/06
Moderators Updates to this page are checked by a UKC volunteer Orrin Coley