Loading Notifications...

Covid-19

At UKC we are all climbers and we understand the strong urge to be outdoors as the weather is finally improving. Please proceed with caution though.

Climbs 60
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 18m a.s.l
Faces SW

View Stats

Andy 'Sharpie' Sharp lapping Turkey Lurking on Spanish-esque Welsh limestone © LluniauOER

Crag features

A great little bolted crag, well worth a visit for climbers in the F6c-7a+ range. In addition, most lines are close enough to each other to allow plenty of link up variations at grades from about 7a-7c. Some of the best link-ups are named below, though there are plenty more that have been done.

The majority of the older bolts were replaced in May 2009, and since then any worn out bolts have been replaced as and when necessary, typically with glue-ins. Take care at the very top of the routes as there can be some loose rock, especially on the far right of the crag.

The main crag seeps quite badly in places after long periods of rain (especially Goose In Lucy). The cave tends to need several dry days to return to condition, but the routes at either end of the crag can usually be climbed even if it has rained the day before. Pioneers of the Hypnotic Groove is climbable whether wet or dry.

Below the cave there are several smaller slabs and zawns with a collection of mainly lower grade trad routes.

Approach notes

Park in the National Trust car park at Southgate. Head west (i.e., rightwards when facing the sea) out of the car park along a private road with houses on your right. Just before you reach number 8 head left following a wide path through some bushes towards the headland, then scramble down the left hand side of the slope before heading back round to the right and into the cove. An alternative approach is possible from the right, but do not under any circumstances attempt to approach the crag by walking over the top as some guides suggest - this is likely to be fatal.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Android and iOS devices.


Guidebooks

South Wales Sport Climbs

South Wales Sport Climbs covers the area to the south of the Brecon Beacons, spanning the land and sea cliffs from the River Wye on the Welsh border to Pembrokeshire in the west. The area is home to a wealth of sport climbing on a multitude of venues ranging from small inland quarries to extensive limestone sea cliffs.
More info
Left 4 quickdraws up Pioneers of the Hypnotic Groove on Sunday to continue projecting the following days, only to have them stolen :( Such a shame.
kirstymcn - 21/May/19
Nest at foxhole literally a foot away from the belay rings on basil brush. They are crows, But the parents where upset that we where there. The other belays for the other routes around there are quite a distance away so aren't really affected. Also the belay rings are loose would of taken a spanner up but the crows where circling
dringocymru1988 - 10/May/16
Login as Existing User to add your comments

Climbs at this crag

Beta
Name Grade Stars Type Logs Partner Ascents
These climbs you have climbed clean.
These climbs you have climbed by seconding or top-roping.
These climbs you have Dogged.
These climbs you Did not Finish.
Climbs are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate. Climbs can't be verified by a crag moderator, and they need more information to confirm it. Climbs are no longer climbable.

Moderators Updates to this page are checked by a UKC volunteer simonr