12m.
Rockfax Description
From halfway up Swimmer's Chimney squirm rightwards past the arete and climb the wall by a hard move, things then ease.
A bouldery direct start up right side of the lower arete is the rarely repeated - Better Dead Than Smeg, E6 6c. © Rockfax
FA. Phil Burke 1980.
Ticklists
ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Froggatt to Black Rocks (BMC) - The Grade List , Pete's 150 Peak Extremes , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| conronoy | 10 Apr, 2022 |
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βeta: The guidebook topo looks too high. From the gear went back down and traversed the lowest finger break into the face then up the full face by long moves. Which feels right at the grade E2 5c. Makes sense that it feels more like E1 5b if you go higher, which still looks good, as you miss a fair few thin moves on the face. Better topos and/or descriptions are needed | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: The guidebook topo looks too high. From the gear went back down and traversed the lowest finger break into the face then up the full face by long moves. Which feels right at the grade E2 5c. Makes sense that it feels more like E1 5b if you go higher, which still looks good, as you miss a fair few thin moves on the face. Better topos and/or descriptions are needed |
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| gazfellows | 9 Apr, 2022 |
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βeta: No mention of down climbing and traversing right!! The actual line is way higher in the guide! Definitely not 5c on that approach though | βeta? | |
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βeta: No mention of down climbing and traversing right!! The actual line is way higher in the guide! Definitely not 5c on that approach though |
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| Droyd | 1 Nov, 2021 |
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βeta: As everyone else says, from the gear in the arete you reverse to the previous break and traverse out right on that | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: As everyone else says, from the gear in the arete you reverse to the previous break and traverse out right on that |
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| Sam Doyle | 21 Aug, 2006 |
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βeta: A brilliant climb. Very well protected and with a nice mantelshelf after attaining the face. | ||
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βeta: A brilliant climb. Very well protected and with a nice mantelshelf after attaining the face. |
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| Joe Costello | 12 Aug, 2006 |
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βeta: Absolute classic! Worth 3 stars for sure. E2 5c fair i reckon. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Absolute classic! Worth 3 stars for sure. E2 5c fair i reckon. |
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| bone | 23 Jul, 2006 |
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βeta: Getting onto the face definitely didn't feel like the crux to me. It was the few moves after that with a semi-mantleshelf that provided the entertainment. Get good gear in quick and then be ready for a long reach. A romp from there on. A really enjoyable climb and worth 3 stars I reckon for its variety. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Getting onto the face definitely didn't feel like the crux to me. It was the few moves after that with a semi-mantleshelf that provided the entertainment. Get good gear in quick and then be ready for a long reach. A romp from there on. A really enjoyable climb and worth 3 stars I reckon for its variety. |
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| Nick Smith - Climbers | 7 May, 2003 |
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βeta: Getting on to the face is by far the hardest part. From the large jammed block in the chimney, you can arrange good gear in the arete, which is above the crux moves onto the face (and makes it E1 perhaps?) | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Getting on to the face is by far the hardest part. From the large jammed block in the chimney, you can arrange good gear in the arete, which is above the crux moves onto the face (and makes it E1 perhaps?) |
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| The Pylon King | 14 Mar, 2003 |
Show βeta
βeta: Bit of traditional back and footing to get you started,strange bouldery moves around onto the face, then lovely long moves up the face - classic and varied - very well protected - more like E1 5c | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Bit of traditional back and footing to get you started,strange bouldery moves around onto the face, then lovely long moves up the face - classic and varied - very well protected - more like E1 5c |
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Route of Interest
M1
Grade: E2 5b ***
(High Tor)