UKC

8m.

Rockfax Description
A fine micro-route, strenuous, with good gear to catch you if you blow the final moves. Trend right up the wall to a break (small cams) then back left to crux moves out left, or direct. © Rockfax

FA. Dave Brearly 1962.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Froggatt to Black Rocks (BMC) - The Grade List , Cracks And Corners To Greatness , Pete's 150 Peak Extremes , Caff's Cool E1s List , Peak District Grit Graded List , Big trad grit list , LD's next grit trip(s)

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User Date Notes
Tim Lowe 9 Aug, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Another trip down or up memory Lane! 42 years since the last time I did it. Great little route
βeta?
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βeta: Another trip down or up memory Lane! 42 years since the last time I did it. Great little route
JayW 16 Apr, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Great route and my first E1 lead. There are better holds the further left you go on the final move.
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βeta: Great route and my first E1 lead. There are better holds the further left you go on the final move.
craig d 1 Jun, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Do you need stamina to climb an 8 metre route that is described as an excellent boulder problem?
βeta?
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βeta: Do you need stamina to climb an 8 metre route that is described as an excellent boulder problem?
Glen 31 Jul, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Harder for me than any of the other E1s and E2s that I did this weekend. I'm sure it's fine if your strong - the holds are ok, and the gear good, but it's steeper than it looks.
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βeta: Harder for me than any of the other E1s and E2s that I did this weekend. I'm sure it's fine if your strong - the holds are ok, and the gear good, but it's steeper than it looks.
Joe Costello 16 Jun, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Lead this on the hottest day of the year with a trouser leg on my head for protection....from the sun. Damn cool route!
βeta?
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βeta: Lead this on the hottest day of the year with a trouser leg on my head for protection....from the sun. Damn cool route!
Pythonist 3 Oct, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Just returned to this one. Still think it's great fun, but pretty much ran to the top this time. If the think the final holds are aweful, they are, but just keep reaching further left. Personally, after the first break before launching right, I didn't use any cams. A 7 nut fits so well in the horizontal crack at the arete and in the top diagonal crack, it feels like sports climbing.
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βeta: Just returned to this one. Still think it's great fun, but pretty much ran to the top this time. If the think the final holds are aweful, they are, but just keep reaching further left. Personally, after the first break before launching right, I didn't use any cams. A 7 nut fits so well in the horizontal crack at the arete and in the top diagonal crack, it feels like sports climbing.
Sazzle 4 Apr, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: At 5' 6" it was a struggle to get my foot on the crucial "ledge", never mind make the reach! But bomber gear at the move - can get 2 or 3 mid-size friends without taking all the holds. Word to the wise - don't carry more than a few friends and a sling. It's not worth the extra weight.
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βeta: At 5' 6" it was a struggle to get my foot on the crucial "ledge", never mind make the reach! But bomber gear at the move - can get 2 or 3 mid-size friends without taking all the holds. Word to the wise - don't carry more than a few friends and a sling. It's not worth the extra weight.
Pythonist 5 Jan, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Er... The diagonal crack placement is the only thing to keep you off the ground if you fluff the last moves. I got to the usual place with hands on the ledge, lost it, and ended up only inches above my belayer's head. A fun one - fairly pumpy, but the diagonal crack is better than it looks, though the reach left along the ledge feels VERY long.
βeta?
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βeta: Er... The diagonal crack placement is the only thing to keep you off the ground if you fluff the last moves. I got to the usual place with hands on the ledge, lost it, and ended up only inches above my belayer's head. A fun one - fairly pumpy, but the diagonal crack is better than it looks, though the reach left along the ledge feels VERY long.
MeMeMe 31 Aug, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Hindu definitely means his other right. Nice route, bold last move. Went up for sloper, decided that there was no way I'd be able to hang on to it so came down to halfway again for what could only with great generosity be called a 'rest'. When I finally screwed up enough courage to go for it the move was a bit wild but great once I got the jugs. Not ideal for first E1 if you ask me. Is very pumpy to place gear (Did anyone else put gear in the diagonal crack? Would the gear in the break stop you before you deck?), although I have to admit I take ages to place gear.
βeta?
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βeta: Hindu definitely means his other right. Nice route, bold last move. Went up for sloper, decided that there was no way I'd be able to hang on to it so came down to halfway again for what could only with great generosity be called a 'rest'. When I finally screwed up enough courage to go for it the move was a bit wild but great once I got the jugs. Not ideal for first E1 if you ask me. Is very pumpy to place gear (Did anyone else put gear in the diagonal crack? Would the gear in the break stop you before you deck?), although I have to admit I take ages to place gear.
Furzy Sleight 7 Oct, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Not an ideal 1st E1 but a great little micro route.
βeta?
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βeta: Not an ideal 1st E1 but a great little micro route.
mattinthedesert 7 Oct, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: D'you mean the other right?
βeta?
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βeta: D'you mean the other right?
london_huddy 15 Jun, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: Superb route, solid gear just far enough away to make the virgin E1 leader nervous at the huge reach. One tip, reach as far to the right as you can because that sloper's worse than you think!
βeta?
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βeta: Superb route, solid gear just far enough away to make the virgin E1 leader nervous at the huge reach. One tip, reach as far to the right as you can because that sloper's worse than you think!

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Grade: E1 6a ***
(Stanage Popular)

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