UKC Logbook - 'Strapiombante'

8m.

Rockfax Description
A fine micro-route, strenuous, with good gear to catch you if you blow the final moves. Trend right up the wall to a break (small cams) then back left to crux moves out left, or direct. © Rockfax

FA. Dave Brearly 1962.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Froggatt to Black Rocks (BMC) - The Grade List , Cracks And Corners To Greatness , Pete's 150 Peak Extremes , Caff's Cool E1s List , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Big trad grit list , LD's next grit trip(s) , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , Eastern Grit E1s , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 E1

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User	Date		Notes
WillMancini	8 Aug	Show βeta βeta: Easy when you know how, pumpy for such a small route and bags of protection. Absolutely classic	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Easy when you know how, pumpy for such a small route and bags of protection. Absolutely classic
Tim Lowe	9 Aug, 2021	Show βeta βeta: Another trip down or up memory Lane! 42 years since the last time I did it. Great little route	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Another trip down or up memory Lane! 42 years since the last time I did it. Great little route
JayW	16 Apr, 2021	Show βeta βeta: Great route and my first E1 lead. There are better holds the further left you go on the final move.
Show beta βeta: Great route and my first E1 lead. There are better holds the further left you go on the final move.
craig d	1 Jun, 2007	Show βeta βeta: Do you need stamina to climb an 8 metre route that is described as an excellent boulder problem?
Show beta βeta: Do you need stamina to climb an 8 metre route that is described as an excellent boulder problem?
Glen	31 Jul, 2006	Show βeta βeta: Harder for me than any of the other E1s and E2s that I did this weekend. I'm sure it's fine if your strong - the holds are ok, and the gear good, but it's steeper than it looks.
Show beta βeta: Harder for me than any of the other E1s and E2s that I did this weekend. I'm sure it's fine if your strong - the holds are ok, and the gear good, but it's steeper than it looks.
Joe Costello	16 Jun, 2006	Show βeta βeta: Lead this on the hottest day of the year with a trouser leg on my head for protection....from the sun. Damn cool route!	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Lead this on the hottest day of the year with a trouser leg on my head for protection....from the sun. Damn cool route!
Pythonist	3 Oct, 2005	Show βeta βeta: Just returned to this one. Still think it's great fun, but pretty much ran to the top this time. If the think the final holds are aweful, they are, but just keep reaching further left. Personally, after the first break before launching right, I didn't use any cams. A 7 nut fits so well in the horizontal crack at the arete and in the top diagonal crack, it feels like sports climbing.
Show beta βeta: Just returned to this one. Still think it's great fun, but pretty much ran to the top this time. If the think the final holds are aweful, they are, but just keep reaching further left. Personally, after the first break before launching right, I didn't use any cams. A 7 nut fits so well in the horizontal crack at the arete and in the top diagonal crack, it feels like sports climbing.
Sazzle	4 Apr, 2005	Show βeta βeta: At 5' 6" it was a struggle to get my foot on the crucial "ledge", never mind make the reach! But bomber gear at the move - can get 2 or 3 mid-size friends without taking all the holds. Word to the wise - don't carry more than a few friends and a sling. It's not worth the extra weight.
Show beta βeta: At 5' 6" it was a struggle to get my foot on the crucial "ledge", never mind make the reach! But bomber gear at the move - can get 2 or 3 mid-size friends without taking all the holds. Word to the wise - don't carry more than a few friends and a sling. It's not worth the extra weight.
Pythonist	5 Jan, 2005	Show βeta βeta: Er... The diagonal crack placement is the only thing to keep you off the ground if you fluff the last moves. I got to the usual place with hands on the ledge, lost it, and ended up only inches above my belayer's head. A fun one - fairly pumpy, but the diagonal crack is better than it looks, though the reach left along the ledge feels VERY long.
Show beta βeta: Er... The diagonal crack placement is the only thing to keep you off the ground if you fluff the last moves. I got to the usual place with hands on the ledge, lost it, and ended up only inches above my belayer's head. A fun one - fairly pumpy, but the diagonal crack is better than it looks, though the reach left along the ledge feels VERY long.
MeMeMe	31 Aug, 2004	Show βeta βeta: Hindu definitely means his other right. Nice route, bold last move. Went up for sloper, decided that there was no way I'd be able to hang on to it so came down to halfway again for what could only with great generosity be called a 'rest'. When I finally screwed up enough courage to go for it the move was a bit wild but great once I got the jugs. Not ideal for first E1 if you ask me. Is very pumpy to place gear (Did anyone else put gear in the diagonal crack? Would the gear in the break stop you before you deck?), although I have to admit I take ages to place gear.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Hindu definitely means his other right. Nice route, bold last move. Went up for sloper, decided that there was no way I'd be able to hang on to it so came down to halfway again for what could only with great generosity be called a 'rest'. When I finally screwed up enough courage to go for it the move was a bit wild but great once I got the jugs. Not ideal for first E1 if you ask me. Is very pumpy to place gear (Did anyone else put gear in the diagonal crack? Would the gear in the break stop you before you deck?), although I have to admit I take ages to place gear.
Furzy Sleight	7 Oct, 2003	Show βeta βeta: Not an ideal 1st E1 but a great little micro route.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Not an ideal 1st E1 but a great little micro route.
mattinthedesert	7 Oct, 2003	Show βeta βeta: D'you mean the other right?	βeta?
Show beta βeta: D'you mean the other right?
london_huddy	15 Jun, 2002	Show βeta βeta: Superb route, solid gear just far enough away to make the virgin E1 leader nervous at the huge reach. One tip, reach as far to the right as you can because that sloper's worse than you think!
Show beta βeta: Superb route, solid gear just far enough away to make the virgin E1 leader nervous at the huge reach. One tip, reach as far to the right as you can because that sloper's worse than you think!