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20m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A fine historic HVS which features two contrasting pitches, a mid-height stance and a belay on a proper summit.
1) 5a, 10m. The tricky, slanting, jamming crack, and a short traverse, lead to a small stance on the arete (awkward belays).
2) 5a, 10m. Step right, climb the wall (gear in the vertical crack) then move left (there is bizarre no-hands rest here) then mantelshelf to the easy upper slab. Enjoy the summit experience then abseil from the ring-bolt. © Rockfax

FA. Joe Brown, Wilf White 1949.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit: Top 50, Hard Rock, Top 20 Gritstone UKC Wishlist Climbs, Top 25 UKC Wishlist Rock Climbs, ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs, Eastern Grit Jamming, Full of Myself - Johnny's Book namecheck, Froggatt to Black Rocks (BMC) - The Grade List, Hard Grit history, The Peak: Past and Present, Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+, World Graded List, Peak Rock/6/ The Emergence of Joe Brown and Don Whillans, Ultimate HVS ticklist, Joe Brown's Three-Star Grit-List, 50 of the Best, The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), Rockfax Eastern Grit (2015) Top 50, The Froggatt to Black Rocks 3 Star Pilgrimage, Definitive *** Peak Grit, Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS), Rockfax Peak Gritstone East (2001) Top 50, Rocksport Top Ten Grit Routes, Rockfax Eastern Grit: Peaks and Pinnacles, On Peak Rock, Definitive Eastern Grit top 50- 2001, 2006 and 2015 editions, EUMC - Must do climbs, Froggatt Cracks (Eastern Grit recommended ticklist), The Gritlist, Hard Rock 2020, Hard Rock, Post-Covid19 Eastern Grit Targets., An attempt at a definitive list of Joe Brown's FA/FFA in the Peak District, Jem's Time in the Peaks, Peak District Grit Graded List, Peak District Grit (2020) *** List

Feedback

User Date Notes
albarnett93 30 Nov, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Hungover, run down, a bit ill. Damp, slimy hand jamming. Can you jam? No. Okay let's make it harder. The perfect combination for a great time. Nails first pitch for me, one to come back to with more experience and in the dry but managed to get up just about. Amazing second pitch but wish I could have felt my fingers. Classic route. A must do.
βeta?
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βeta: Hungover, run down, a bit ill. Damp, slimy hand jamming. Can you jam? No. Okay let's make it harder. The perfect combination for a great time. Nails first pitch for me, one to come back to with more experience and in the dry but managed to get up just about. Amazing second pitch but wish I could have felt my fingers. Classic route. A must do.
roberto18 11 May, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Ended up leading both pitches, the first pitch isn't technically difficult, but stopping to put gear in is a nightmare. Went left after the first pitch which was a mistake, then found the traverse desperate, top pitch is amazing you have really got to enjoy it. the top pitch is my style of climbing but the bottom pitch isn't anyones style of climbing except joe brown's.
βeta?
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βeta: Ended up leading both pitches, the first pitch isn't technically difficult, but stopping to put gear in is a nightmare. Went left after the first pitch which was a mistake, then found the traverse desperate, top pitch is amazing you have really got to enjoy it. the top pitch is my style of climbing but the bottom pitch isn't anyones style of climbing except joe brown's.
Lurkio 19 Sep, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: What a fantastic route. As mentioned, don't miss out on the knee-bar (both knees!) hands-off rest just below the final mantle on the second pitch. You can pause there and enjoy the great position. Great North Road *was* my favourite grit HVS, but now I'm not so sure. Magic!
βeta?
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βeta: What a fantastic route. As mentioned, don't miss out on the knee-bar (both knees!) hands-off rest just below the final mantle on the second pitch. You can pause there and enjoy the great position. Great North Road *was* my favourite grit HVS, but now I'm not so sure. Magic!
truckmonkey 18 Apr, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: yeah much better in one long pitch and the first pitch int to bad if u can jam although u can layback most if it
βeta?
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βeta: yeah much better in one long pitch and the first pitch int to bad if u can jam although u can layback most if it
Si dH 29 Jan, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: First pitch was very good but very sustained. Unfortunately the worst section of the crack wit hthe thin jams was laos wte, making it especailly difficult, I had to semi-layback part of it. Top pitch would be softish HVS 5a if it wasn't for just having done the bottom one. Awesome route.
βeta?
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βeta: First pitch was very good but very sustained. Unfortunately the worst section of the crack wit hthe thin jams was laos wte, making it especailly difficult, I had to semi-layback part of it. Top pitch would be softish HVS 5a if it wasn't for just having done the bottom one. Awesome route.
leon 18 Jul, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: i found the second pitch straightforward, pleasant hvs 5a. the first pitch was my worst nightmare
βeta?
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βeta: i found the second pitch straightforward, pleasant hvs 5a. the first pitch was my worst nightmare
MNA123 11 Jul, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Did this yesterday on one of the hottest days of the year so far, i thought the crux was tryin to get the bomber nut in on the second pitch as trying to hold onto a frictionless ledge with one hand in the boiling heat with sweat pouring out of everywhere is extremely difficult. Suffice to say i dint flash it, ah well first Hard Rock route though Yipee!
βeta?
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βeta: Did this yesterday on one of the hottest days of the year so far, i thought the crux was tryin to get the bomber nut in on the second pitch as trying to hold onto a frictionless ledge with one hand in the boiling heat with sweat pouring out of everywhere is extremely difficult. Suffice to say i dint flash it, ah well first Hard Rock route though Yipee!
Albie 31 May, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Woohoooo I lead the top pitch - oh so different to the thug fest on the first part. And that knee bar at the mantle shelf came as a very pleasant surprise - a good crowd pleaser as you go hands free.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Woohoooo I lead the top pitch - oh so different to the thug fest on the first part. And that knee bar at the mantle shelf came as a very pleasant surprise - a good crowd pleaser as you go hands free.
dancurrie 24 Apr, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: I agree with the first pitch synopsis; very pumpy!! My partner made a awkward looking head jam to matleshelf into to belay position (sacrificnig his helmet in the depths of the break!!) As, for the 'bomber rock 9', i had one ready on a quick draw but 2 to my dismay, it didnt fit. then got very tired whilst placing a solid wallnut 5 and was knackered for the crux. All in all, an awsome route, an only my second HVS. If you can battle through the first pitch... u'l be happy u did!!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I agree with the first pitch synopsis; very pumpy!! My partner made a awkward looking head jam to matleshelf into to belay position (sacrificnig his helmet in the depths of the break!!) As, for the 'bomber rock 9', i had one ready on a quick draw but 2 to my dismay, it didnt fit. then got very tired whilst placing a solid wallnut 5 and was knackered for the crux. All in all, an awsome route, an only my second HVS. If you can battle through the first pitch... u'l be happy u did!!
MeMeMe 31 Aug, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: I found the first pitch hideous! Starting was awkward but eventually managed it by basically throwing myself at it (didn't use boulder), placing gear was strenuous and I found the gear then got in the way of the jams. I then sat on ledge on left for a rest which was probably a mistake since it's pretty awkward to get back down to top of crack in order to do the hand traverse. Once I got onto the traverse however I found it easy (only a couple of moves and more to stand on that it first seems). Once at the belay we were subjected to rain, hail and gales and were seriously considering abbing off. We decided it would be just as quick to climb up as go down and partner did splendidly on top pitch in the rain. As we squelched off to Grindleford cafe for celebratory tea and chip butty clouds melted away, sun came out and it was brilliant weather for rest of afternoon.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I found the first pitch hideous! Starting was awkward but eventually managed it by basically throwing myself at it (didn't use boulder), placing gear was strenuous and I found the gear then got in the way of the jams. I then sat on ledge on left for a rest which was probably a mistake since it's pretty awkward to get back down to top of crack in order to do the hand traverse. Once I got onto the traverse however I found it easy (only a couple of moves and more to stand on that it first seems). Once at the belay we were subjected to rain, hail and gales and were seriously considering abbing off. We decided it would be just as quick to climb up as go down and partner did splendidly on top pitch in the rain. As we squelched off to Grindleford cafe for celebratory tea and chip butty clouds melted away, sun came out and it was brilliant weather for rest of afternoon.
bone 12 Jun, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: excellent route. avoid hanging around first pitch, save it for the second one where you can savour the position and views.
βeta?
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βeta: excellent route. avoid hanging around first pitch, save it for the second one where you can savour the position and views.
Nick Smith - Climbers 30 May, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Just keep going on the first pitch - the lower half of the crack is the hardest and it eases considerably towards the top. Fabulous :)
βeta?
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βeta: Just keep going on the first pitch - the lower half of the crack is the hardest and it eases considerably towards the top. Fabulous :)
Jon Greengrass 16 May, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: The first pitch is brutal, couldn;t work out the start so started from the boulder. Watch out for bats in the horizontal hand slot on the right sode of the crack. I couldn't find any decent jams to hang of and place gear and got totally pumped,
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The first pitch is brutal, couldn;t work out the start so started from the boulder. Watch out for bats in the horizontal hand slot on the right sode of the crack. I couldn't find any decent jams to hang of and place gear and got totally pumped,

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High E1
Mid E1
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High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 294
High 5b
Mid 5b
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High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 282
Votes cast 265
Style of Ascent
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Followed
Soloed
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Not Set
Onsighted
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Ground Up
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Route of Interest

Great Crack

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Duke's Quarry)