A fine historic HVS which features two contrasting sections, an optional mid-height stance and a belay on a proper summit. Climb the tricky, slanting, jamming crack then make a short traverse right to a ledge on the arete - optional historic belay and often welcome after the first pitch! Step right, climb the wall then move left (there is bizarre no-hands rest here if you can find it). Mantelshelf to the easy upper slab and enjoy the summit experience then abseil from the ring-bolt.
Valkyrie Direct, HVS 5a - Avoid the loop out right in favour of the bulges up and left of the belay. © Rockfax
FA. Joe Brown, Wilf White 1949.
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