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21m.

Rockfax Description
A major classic, originally led with a single thread-runner. Climb the cracked slab to the overhang then swing around the arete. The famous rocking block was removed in late 2013 - the crux is now a bit harder. Pull up and make difficult moves to get back on the front face. The upper slab is delicate though gear is adequate nowadays with modern technology. © Rockfax

FA. Peter Biven 1955.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit: Top 50, ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs, Froggatt to Black Rocks (BMC) - The Grade List, The Peak: Past and Present, World Graded List, Peak Rock/7/8/Biven-Peck Partnership/1950's a Developing Decade, Ultimate E1 ticklist, 50 of the Best, The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), Rockfax Eastern Grit (2015) Top 50, The Froggatt to Black Rocks 3 Star Pilgrimage, Definitive *** Peak Grit, Rockfax Peak Gritstone East (2001) Top 50, Rab 'Pocket a Prize' Competition: Randall's Routes, Lesser Known Grit Classics, Rocksport Top Ten Grit Routes, Definitive Eastern Grit top 50- 2001, 2006 and 2015 editions

Feedback

User Date Notes
Si dH 12 Nov, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: The gear at the bloc kadn below is bomber, and there is bombe rgear in the slanting crack when you first get o nthe slab, but above that the placements are all very worn, the sort of thing you could probabyl slump on but I dont thikn theyd take a fall (and they were all very small apart form a friend 2 in the obvious slot at the upper crux - which is utterly crap). Awesome route though.
βeta?
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βeta: The gear at the bloc kadn below is bomber, and there is bombe rgear in the slanting crack when you first get o nthe slab, but above that the placements are all very worn, the sort of thing you could probabyl slump on but I dont thikn theyd take a fall (and they were all very small apart form a friend 2 in the obvious slot at the upper crux - which is utterly crap). Awesome route though.
MNA123 24 Aug, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Agree with the never lets up comment, but not with the bomber gear one, the only bit of gear i wouldn't have minded falling on was the in-situ sling round the block, all the cams looked crap. Hard move followed by hard move, great route but hard at the grade!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Agree with the never lets up comment, but not with the bomber gear one, the only bit of gear i wouldn't have minded falling on was the in-situ sling round the block, all the cams looked crap. Hard move followed by hard move, great route but hard at the grade!
Andrew Barker 16 May, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: The crux had me gripped! Not too hard a climb but it felt very exposed. Definitely a classic lead that I won't be doing again in a hurry! One to savour even more after you've done it.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The crux had me gripped! Not too hard a climb but it felt very exposed. Definitely a classic lead that I won't be doing again in a hurry! One to savour even more after you've done it.
stow 4 Apr, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Very nice route. Drives home the truth of the old adage: never pass up an opportunity to place bomber gear.
βeta?
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βeta: Very nice route. Drives home the truth of the old adage: never pass up an opportunity to place bomber gear.
Mark Davies PK 17 Mar, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Not as hard as i thought it would be and good gear all the way up (very small to medium cams essential) a bloody classic if ever there was one!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Not as hard as i thought it would be and good gear all the way up (very small to medium cams essential) a bloody classic if ever there was one!

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Votes cast 135
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Soloed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
DNF
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest

Tower Chimney

Grade: E1 5b ***
(Stanage Plantation)