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Climbs 108
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 194m a.s.l
Faces N

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Mark Pretty onsighting Crustacean - 7a+, Goddard's Quarry, Stoney Middleton. © stp

Crag features

This is the huge open quarry on the other side of the road from the main Stoney crag. A series of different walls provide reasonable spread of well bolted, short and long, sport climbs at different parts of the quarry. Rock quality in most sectors is good though care should be taken on the big 15 Steps wall and it's probably sensible to wear a helmet and don't stand directly under a climber while belaying.

Most of the walls are face northward and receive no sun until evening, the exception being the aptly named Sunshine Wall which faces south. Stoat Wall gets sun from mid-afternoon.

Most of the development is fairly recent and ongoing and currently only Crustacean Wall is covered by any guidebooks. However up to date route information and topos for the other sectors can be found at sportsclimbs.co.uk.

Thanks to sportsclimbs.co.uk for providing much of the information here.

Approach notes

Park at the main Stoney car park. Walk up the dale about 50m and cross over a stile opposite the garage. Walk up the track and the Crustacean Wall soon appears at the top of the track.

Access Advice

No permission has been granted by the landowner for climbing access to this quarry.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 9 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

The restriction applies to the Sunshine Wall area on the northern quarry edge.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Android and iOS devices.


Guidebooks

Seems to be an access issue - asked to leave on June 10th. A company have a years contract to "renovate" the quarry. BMC informed and are looking into the matter
uphillnow - 11/Jun/15
Climbed at the 'sunshine' wall on a rather grey and windy day - however this wall seems quite sheltered. Good set of routes worth a visit once they ve cleaned up.
najki_2000 - 17/May/15
A great addition to Stoney bolted routes. The lower section 'Crustaceans Wall' has several excellent 2 * routes or at least they will be when it dries out a bit and cleans up. The plantation area further up still needs to be logged on UKC but is another great sector. There is a third sector at the top end of the quarry which I guess has still to be revealed, looks like a bunch of 6's on decent rock. All in all a great set of routes. The plantation area grades will probably get a bit of adjusting as we almost on-sited two 7A's which doesn't happen! Probably 6c/6c+.
sishaw - 19/Apr/15
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Climbs at this crag

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