UKC Logbook - 'Citadel'

2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A superb and sustained line with a tricky first pitch and a great crack on the second. Start 10m left of the chimney of Mammoth.
1) 6b, 32m. Climb up and left across the lower wall to gain undercut flakes. Traverse right to the corner and small roof (good gear). Make a couple of desperate moves up and left to gain the sloping ledge. Good belay up and right.
2) 6a, 30m. Move up right to gain the crack and climb it with sustained interest to where the angle and rock colour change. Continue more easily to a small stance.
3) 4c, 35m. Climb the groove above to join the traverse line of Cordon Bleau. Finish up this or make your way more directly over easy but loose ground to the top. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Magnificent with a hard crux.

Ticklists

Extreme Rock , North Wales Rock Graded List , Main Cliff Big E5s , ROCKFAX - Top 50 North Wales Climbs , James' 2015 Summer. , Caff's 100 Ace E5s , Ultimate E5 ticklist , The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , James' Summer Ticklist , Welsh climbs to last a lifetime

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User	Date		Notes
Si Witcher	24 Nov, 2022	Show βeta βeta: 1x drilled/glued runner added to pitch 1 crux, to replace previous old hammered peg circa 2019.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: 1x drilled/glued runner added to pitch 1 crux, to replace previous old hammered peg circa 2019.
Steve Long	27 Jul, 2022	Show βeta βeta: I've climbed this previously both with and without the original piton. I was previously critical of the replacement peg, but having climbed it subsequently I think it has restored the route to its prime condition and allows the second to enjoy free climbing it instead of worrying about swinging into space if you fluff the crux (unclip the peg AFTER latching the jug).
Show beta βeta: I've climbed this previously both with and without the original piton. I was previously critical of the replacement peg, but having climbed it subsequently I think it has restored the route to its prime condition and allows the second to enjoy free climbing it instead of worrying about swinging into space if you fluff the crux (unclip the peg AFTER latching the jug).
accynez	6 May, 2019	Show βeta βeta: Brand new cemented in stainless steel peg on the crux.
Show beta βeta: Brand new cemented in stainless steel peg on the crux.