3 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A great route that is one of the easier lines on Main Cliff, although the approach and climbing are committing and shouldn't be underestimated. Start below a vague line of flakes running up to the corner of The Big Groove. This section can be badly affected by swell from the ferry, so low tide recommended.
1) 5a, 35m. Climb up to the flakes and follow them rightwards to a ledge below a short corner. Climb this for few metres and move left into another left-facing corner which leads to a belay ledge on the right.
2) 4b, 15m. Descend slightly and step left into a wide crack (Peepshow). Follow this to a line of flakes that lead easily up leftwards to a belay below a long groove about 10m higher than your previous belay. The last section is shared with Jaborandi.
3) 5a, 25m. Climb the groove on the left with an awkward bulge to a large stance on the left and junction with Syringe.
4) 4b, 40m. Continue up via easier climbing behind the belay to a ledge just below the top - possible belay if rope drag is an issue. Continue left and up to reach the heather slopes above. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Gives a good view of The Big groove but never really delivers on quality.


MIA logbook must haves! , Ingle Routes , George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist , The Gogarth Rock Cat's Apprenticeship.


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High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 24
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 24
Votes cast 23
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest
Lighthouse Arete Direct/Blanco

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Gogarth South Stack)

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