Rockfax Description
The lower part of the arete on the left of Heroin is split by three short grooves. This climb goes up the centre groove, then up a crack in the wall above. Start from the Heroin bay, scramble up to take a belay below the groove.
1) 5c, 45m. Climb the groove on the left via a hard start and follow it an overlap. Then step round left to climb the wide crack, which is followed to a good stance. The initial hard moves can be avoided by climbing the left hand groove until it joins the original route.
2) 5a, 10m. Continue in the same line to the top. © Rockfax
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Grade: E1 5b ***
(Gogarth North Stack and Main Cliff)