A reasonable line up through an impressively steep section of rock. Start below a pinnacle that marks the start of the ramp.1) 5a, 30m. A demanding pitch. Climb up the pinnacle and step right onto a ledge. Climb the corner and continue up the slab to some spikes on the left at the top of the ramp. Move over to the left to belay below the steep final corner.2) 5a, 25m. Tackle the corner via the crack to where you can make a blind reach rightwards into the base of the bottomless chimney, which leads more easily to the top. © Rockfax
North Wales Rock Graded List
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The Gogarth Rock Cat's Apprenticeship.
North Wales jaunt
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Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Gogarth South Stack)
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