Steep, sustained and frightening. Start from the left side of the Gogarth pinnacle. At high tide the ledge at the top of P1 can be gained by climbing over the pinnacle.
1) 5a, 12m. Climb slightly left up a steep wall, then head diagonally right to gain a large platform left of the pinnacle.
2) 5c, 30m. A cracking pitch, step left off the ledge and follow a diagonally line of weakness left passing a hard move to gain a chimney groove. Struggle up this to the overhang that curves up and left. This can sometimes be damp, try to ignore this and the rising panic as you become pumped, and follow the overlap up and left to a steep slab. Pull up and right across the slab to a gain a good stance below the rather ominous-looking chimney.
3) 5b, 25m. Another worrying pitch. Climb the chimney above. It is steep, strenuous and bold, not to mention a little friable in places. Reach the slab above by exiting the crack rightwards. Belay on the top of the slab.
4) 8m. Move down and right along the flake, to a belay at the base of the corner.
5) 4c, 13m. Climb the steep corner to a belay on the top of the upper pinnacle on Gogarth.
6) 5a, 28m. Move down left and traverse the wall to the foot of a crack. Take this to where it divides and follow the right fork until it is possible to move left round a rib to reach an easier crack. Belay well up the slope. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Starts on the ledge just past the Gogarth pinnacle. If the tides in you'll be able to do the first pitch of Gogarth instead. Crux can be greasy so pay attention to the conditions. The chimney is 'fragile' but has reasonable protection.
Great route, solid E3
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