An enormous clean sweep of granite rising from the river, in the heart of the Baihe Grand Canyon. The situation is stunning, the approach difficult and the climbing sustained to a good summit top out. A grand day out!
Driving from Jinglinggu village, continue up the gorge past Qinglongbei. Pass through the first tunnel and stop at the parking place at the entrance to the next tunnel. A wide, steep gully heads down from here (probably full of garbage). Head down this gully for about 30-40 minutes. Eventually you will start to see the large sweep of the crag on your right. Once you are below the base of the crag you should see a streaked white and black slab on your right below the base of the cliff. Once Upon A Time approaches above this slab. Gossip Climber and Perfect Feeling approach below it (a small cairn marks the turning and there is a feint path). The first bolts of Gossip Climber are easy to spot. For Perfect Feeling, continue scrambling below the crag, underneath a rocky spur and then up to the start, which is on top of the rocky spur.
The descent is also complicated. From the top of Gossip Climber, follow a very small track on the NW side. If you find a section with a manmade stone stairway then you know you are on the right trial. You will emerge on the road 200m before the start point.
It's best to arrange a pick up by someone in Jinglinggu.
The sun hits the main face at about noon. Avoid climbing during the summer and take at least 2litres per person. You can also stash water at the exit point on the road, marked by two wide pieces of tape and 'climbing' scratched into the guard rail.
There is a weak mobile phone signal from the summit.