A pleasant route that boils down to one isolated move. Start below a crack near the right-hand end of the crag. It can be climbed in one long spectacular pitch.
1) 5b, 28m. Climb the tricky crack to a ledge and take the hanging slab on the left; try to stay on its edge. The crux is stepping left round a small rib to reach a short groove and some flakes on the left wall. Climb the flake back right and head up a short corner. Move left to a belay below a vertical crack.
2) 4a, 20m. Climb the wall to the right of the crack and move back left to gain a jug, above it soon turns into easier slabs. Follow these to belay well back.
FA Joe Brown, C.E.Davies 26.4.73 © Rockfax
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