UKC

Climbs 23
Rocktype Sandstone (soft)
Altitude 189m a.s.l

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Gribby's Crag © Jamie Millar

Crag features

A little hidden gem of Midlothian which has a severe lack of climbable boulders! A very small quarry that has a nice section of wall for some face climbing. Lots of different holds and plenty of potential to make eliminates from the established lines to increase or decrease difficulty. It's more of a training crag for new and intermediate climbers. A great place for those breaking out into outdoor bouldering and starting off their outdoor bouldering journey, or competent climbers looking for low-intensity outdoor bouldering, general skin conditioning, etc. 

A natural sun trap in the evening and gets a fair bit of shelter from wind most days. Excellent views, trails, and history around the area. The quarry itself was mined for Crichton Castle and its building.

General Etiquette and advice  

Light rain 24 hrs drying time before climbing.

Heavy rain 48-72 hrs drying time before climbing.

Not ideal for big climbing groups as space is an issue. Individual climbing or small pad party (2-4).

Cattle can be very curious if they decide to come into the quarry to chill so be friendly but careful. Don't be alarmed if they begin following you, they seem to like boulder pads. 

Absolutely no chipping or heavy-handed brushing as the rock is fragile.

Keep dogs on a lead as there are cattle in the field.

Don't leave any litter. If you see any litter at the crag please do pick it up and take it to the bin in the car park, even if it wasn't yours. This is a Historic Scotland site and is the least we can do as climbers with strong forearms (always good to show off our forearm conditioning).  Protect the environment two forearms at a time ;)

Approach notes

Park at the Chrichton Castle car park. Follow the path to the castle, once at the castle a second building will be visible (stables).  Walk up the small grassy hill off to the left of the stables to find the hidden quarry.

 

No Access Issues

The car park can get busy with walkers and people visiting the castle, especially at the weekend.

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Climbs at this crag

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Moderators Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteers Jamie Millar and Maragmhòraix

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