Climbs 77
Rocktype Sandstone (hard)
Altitude 45m a.s.l

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Sloe traverse area © Ollie Keynes

Crag features

Various sandstone quarries in the woods

Approach notes

Bickley Wood bouldering - from the Castle Farm Rd car park take the road left of the carpark entrance (as you face in) & follow this downhill for a few minutes until small quarry on the left. Immediately after this take a small track left to go up and over the small quarry and drop down into a larger one where the bouldering walls can be found (in its upper corners).

IMPORTANT: The area is a geological SSSI so please keep chalk use to a minimum here (i.e chalk your fingertips but not the rock, don't use tick marks, brush chalk residue off afterwards). No lamp sessions at night or stereos to respect the wildlife here and please keep dogs on a leash.

Various routes have been done on the bigger walls around these quarries, mostly by M.Davies, G.X.Percival, & P.Robertson around 2012. Immediately below the Bickley West bouldering is Sunrise Slab and The Prow (both look excellent). Route details can be found at:

No Access Issues

Be warned the car park is closed, with the gate locked down, at dusk.

FYI the carpark at Castle Farm Rd locks at 9pm as we unfortunately found out last night.
laughitup - 15/Jun/22
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