Rockfax Description
A fine climb following an absorbing line up the buttress which has been incorrectly described in previous books. Climb the short corner, then pull left onto a slab. Go easily up the ramp leftwards and then up past two bolts to the scoop with an old peg. Traverse back right - take care with rope drag - before finishing up a well-positioned groove. Belays are difficult to find and there is some loose rock at the top. © Rockfax
FA. Bob Toogood, Bob Dearman 1966.
User | Date | Notes | ||
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cragtyke | 9 Jun, 2021 |
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βeta: The 3* HVS follows the ramp leftwards to the groove left of Sin City, then up the groove for a couple of moves before traversing back right past the round scoop containing the old peg, then round and up the cracked corner to a belay just below the top. | βeta? | |
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βeta: The 3* HVS follows the ramp leftwards to the groove left of Sin City, then up the groove for a couple of moves before traversing back right past the round scoop containing the old peg, then round and up the cracked corner to a belay just below the top. |
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Alan James - UKC and UKH | 7 Jun, 2019 |
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βeta: For the crag-top belay, it is possible to find some wires and a sling over to the right (looking in) effectively on the crag edge where it bends round. It is slightly to the side but good enough. | βeta? | |
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βeta: For the crag-top belay, it is possible to find some wires and a sling over to the right (looking in) effectively on the crag edge where it bends round. It is slightly to the side but good enough. |
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Richard 261 | 11 Aug, 2007 |
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βeta: Very nice. Enjoyed it a lot. The belay at the top is V poor.. an old stake a long way off and NOTHING else. Be warned. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Very nice. Enjoyed it a lot. The belay at the top is V poor.. an old stake a long way off and NOTHING else. Be warned. |
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Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Dovestone Tor)