Restricted Access
The rock varies in character from typically quarried on the lower tier through to more abrasive rock on the upper tier where blasting has uncovered large tracts of calcite-encrusted rock which almost feels like natural limestone. As with most quarries, extra vigilance needs to be exercised by both climber and belayer here given the blasting activity which has created potential for loose rock.
Don't swim in the bright blue toxic pool (as if you needed telling)!
Rockfax Description
A fine climb following an absorbing line up the buttress which has been incorrectly described in previous books. Climb the short corner, then pull left onto a slab. Go easily up the ramp leftwards and then up past two bolts to the scoop with an old peg. Traverse back right - take care with rope drag - before finishing up a well-positioned groove. Belays are difficult to find and there is some loose rock at the top. © Rockfax
FA. Bob Toogood, Bob Dearman 1966.
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| paulinepavlova | 21 May, 2023 |
Show βeta
βeta: Yas others have said, there is no more stake belay. Youu can just use some nuts and cams to set up belay before getting right on top of the grass. It's a bit awkward as you have to stand awkwardly in cramped space and you're not at very top but the remaining moves onto grass are fairly easy | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Yas others have said, there is no more stake belay. Youu can just use some nuts and cams to set up belay before getting right on top of the grass. It's a bit awkward as you have to stand awkwardly in cramped space and you're not at very top but the remaining moves onto grass are fairly easy |
||||
| R Brown | 21 May, 2023 |
Show βeta
βeta: Lots of loose rock at the break at the top of the ramp. The peg is now so rusted as to be useless (good small gear below it). The stake belay at the top of the crag is not there. Perhaps best to belay on the lower off on Coral Sea? | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Lots of loose rock at the break at the top of the ramp. The peg is now so rusted as to be useless (good small gear below it). The stake belay at the top of the crag is not there. Perhaps best to belay on the lower off on Coral Sea? |
||||
| cragtyke | 9 Jun, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: The 3* HVS follows the ramp leftwards to the groove left of Sin City, then up the groove for a couple of moves before traversing back right past the round scoop containing the old peg, then round and up the cracked corner to a belay just below the top. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: The 3* HVS follows the ramp leftwards to the groove left of Sin City, then up the groove for a couple of moves before traversing back right past the round scoop containing the old peg, then round and up the cracked corner to a belay just below the top. |
||||
| Alan James - Rockfax | 7 Jun, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: For the crag-top belay, it is possible to find some wires and a sling over to the right (looking in) effectively on the crag edge where it bends round. It is slightly to the side but good enough. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: For the crag-top belay, it is possible to find some wires and a sling over to the right (looking in) effectively on the crag edge where it bends round. It is slightly to the side but good enough. |
||||
| Richard 261 | 11 Aug, 2007 |
Show βeta
βeta: Very nice. Enjoyed it a lot. The belay at the top is V poor.. an old stake a long way off and NOTHING else. Be warned. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Very nice. Enjoyed it a lot. The belay at the top is V poor.. an old stake a long way off and NOTHING else. Be warned. |
||||
Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Harpur Hill Quarry
Not all climbs at crag may appear in this book 62 users have this on their wishlist
Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents
Valkyrie
Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Froggatt Edge)