UKC

Climbs 13
Rocktype Sandstone (soft)
Altitude 92m a.s.l
Faces NW

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The main crag © NimbleNeil

Crag features

Two small crags of sherwood sandstone outcrop near the top of Stapleford Hill. The main crag is downhill  to the NW from the summit trig point, whilst a second, smaller crag lies directly beneath the trig point to the W. The Main crag features a carved-out cave with an arete on its right side, an arete adjacent to a tree, a central, blocky section of more well cemented sandstone, and a small overhanging boulder to the right. The smaller second crag features some small edges and cracks. Generally easy climbing throughout, made more difficult by the process of erosion occuring upon each placement of hand or foot.

It ain't much, but it appears to be Nottingham's only natural outdoor climbing venue.

TAKE CARE FOR LOOSE BLOCKS / CHOSS - the rock is extremely crumbly in places.

DO NOT CLIMB IF WET - usual sandstone etiquette. Whilst the central area of the crag is well cemented, most of the rest of the crag is exceptionally crumbly and will break if climbed in improper conditions.To be honest, it will break if dry anyway, just be careful with the rock.

Approach notes

Parking can be had in the Bramcote hills park car park. Head up the A6002 and turn off left, to approach the Hemlock Stone. Follow the trails uphill  ( Be aware of mountain bikers using the trails for jumps) until you come to a trig point. The main crag is over the crest and downhill slightly, whilst the smaller crag is directly below the trig point. 

Got slightly lost on the approach but some friendly mountain bikers pointed us in the right direction. Quality of rock varies hugely. Top outs are leafy definitely worth giving these a clean before you begin. A fun afternoon out for a keen local.
wlloyd - 06/Mar/21
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Climbs at this crag

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