Climbs 92
Rocktype Sandstone (hard)
Altitude 293m a.s.l
Faces N
My Edit of the 'classic' Moonflower shot © Dave Warburton
Crag features
One of the best crags on the north york moors with 3* classics from severe right up to E7. Magic in the air is one of the best routes anywhere.
Recommended:
Ladies First (VD)
Highcliffe Crack (S)
Hearthrob Crack (VS) Flaked Crack (VS)
Holden's (HVS) Knuckle Duster (HVS)
Queer Street (E1 - bold) Scarecrow Crack (E1) Wombat (E1)
Rockhopper (E2 - bold) Peeler (E2)
Stargazer (E4)
Moonflower (E5)
Magic in the Air (E6/7)
Esmerelda (E7)
Predominantly north facing, this crag is best on a summer's day after a few day's dry weather, though most routes are fine throughout the year after a few dry days. Many of the previously neglected routes at the far end of the crag have recently been cleaned up (as of summer 2016) and are well worth seeking out.
Approach notes
From Hutton Village (Grid NZ 601 137) take the forest track for 300m, turn sharp L then contour round ignoring paths that lead up or downhill. 250m >from the farm take the 3rd right and climb steeply up, and take a small path on left that leads to crag. (20 mins)
Rockfax App
Available in the Rockfax App
The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Android and iOS devices.
Guidebooks
Northern England
The book is a selected route and crag guide although it still manages to pack over 2350 routes between its covers, spread across 44 crags. The main focus is on routes of all grades from Moderate to E9, but the best bouldering is also described.Out of print:
North York Moors (1985)
North York Moors (1970)
Climbs On The North York Moors (1961)
| I've cleaned a few routes at the left hand end as they were looking sadly neglected.
From left to right:
- Holden's Wall (HVS)
- Holden's Right Hand (HVS)
- Green crack (HS)
- Green wall (VS)
- Frank's Folly (VS)
- Peeler (E2)
- Flange Crack (E2)
- Sunset Crack (HVS)
- Sarcophagus (HVS)
- Wee Dot (HVS)
- Knuckleduster (HVS)
- Ping (E1)
- Twin Cracks (HS)
I've cleared the brambles and branches from the bottom of the crag too so it's easy enough to walk all the way along from the popular end now. I've also cleared the brash left over from the feeling at the top of the Peeler/Flange crack area as it was a nightmare walking through it to get to the belay trees.
Hopefully this might encourage folk to venture down there a bit more as there are some cracking routes to be had, especially Ping, Peeler and Holden's.
Get stuck in! Anti-faff - 11/Jun/16 | |
| After installing a new stake above Ladies First & doing it we found a very large loose block under the overhang of the 4c direct, please take care if anywhere near this as its ready to go. Also check out Final Outcrop area, theres a stake above Green Crack now which should do for a fair few climbs & they could do with more traffic although they're still worthwhile! phleppy - 28/Jul/11 | |
| Since most of the trees have been felled at the front this place has got better, it dries quickly apart from winter obviously & I reccomend a visit to the left of the crag as a few routes have been cleaned & are seeing more wind & sun these days, the future seems bright for this place! phleppy - 02/Aug/10 | |
| Dont listen - this crag is usually in a crap state since the forest cover was cut back. It is disintegrating on the right and getting moss covered on the left. Only those climbing at a very high standard will get much out of this crag. Most visitors stick to the defined cracklines to the right as can be seen from the crag record. In 6 visits I have always gone back to repeats of the safe routes. beaumap - 26/Sep/09 |
Climbs at this crag
| Name | Grade | Stars | Type | Logs | Partner Ascents |
|---|
These climbs you have climbed by seconding or top-roping.
These climbs you have Dogged.
These climbs you Did not Finish.
Climbs are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate. Climbs can't be verified by a crag moderator, and they need more information to confirm it. Climbs are no longer climbable.
Moderators Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteers Franco Cookson and Anti-faff