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Climbs 25
Rocktype Dolerite
Altitude 300m a.s.l
Faces NE

Approach notes

After many years with climbing banned (sometimes at the point of a gun), limited access is now allowed again! Details at and on the BMC RAD database.
A temporary Ring Ouzel ban is possible, probably April to June judging by the Stanage experience.

Restricted Access

The BMC have now negotiated access guidelines for climbers with the Countryside Agency, English Nature & Durham County Council, which must be followed otherwise access could be lost.

This crag forms part of the Upper Teesdale Site of Special Scientific Interest due to the rich diversity of rare species and relict arctic-alpine plants. This area has a high level of legal protection, and anyone damaging conservation interests can be punished by a large fine and/or imprisonment.

  • Do not remove cliff vegetation this is an illegal (and punishable) offence under the Wildlife and Countryside and CRoW Acts
  • Climbing is only permitted on buttresses numbered 1 to 5 (in the Holwick Scar access leaflet)
  • Do not climb on the buttress between Great Chimney and Charlie’s Chimney (inc. these routes), or on the area under the black lines on buttress 3 (see pamphlet)
  • Avoid climbing onto the large vegetated ledges
  • Do not abseil from the trees
  • Descend from buttresses 1, 2, and 3 down the back When topping-out from buttresses 4 and 5 descend via the large grassy gully on the right
  • When moving between buttresses stay on the obvious ‘sheep-track’
  • Do not walk on ANY of the scree slopes
  • Only approach the crag by the designated access point
  • Follow the Countryside Code
  • If you spot Ring Ouzel’s in early-mid March, call Natural England. Guidelines photo-pamphlet available at the crag.

For more details also see the Climb Online website.

Seasonal Restrictions

Reason: Other

No climbing after 9.30pm. Access to a large area of Open Access land near the crag in Upper Teesdale has been closed. The crag itself is outside of this area, however if planning a walk on the fells in Upper Teesdale, please consult the following Natural England access map to establish which areas are currently open:

The land owner has been granted a 5 year ban on dogs.

Visited 11th Sept 06 on a fine dry day.The climbonline download guide is right to emphasise a warning about the grades being 30 years old. We must be getting soft, we started with Left Escalator at HS 4a. We had to swop lead after a steep start but there are three good threads on the way up. It was steep but enjoyable once you got gear in but we thought worth 4b ! Our next effort was Master's Groove at VS 4b**. Again we had to swop leads with the first of us backing off above the first crux.I lead through and thankfully found a stuck wire in the overhang. I pulled through but as I was on the "finish on grassy ledges" something gave way and I took a 35ft fall through a tree landing upside down below my belayer. My helmet saved me from no worse than a grazed forehead and bruised groin from the rope ! I enjoyed the climb though we thought it worth a good 4c. My partner said I could have the tick !
nocker - 11/Sep/06
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Climbs at this crag

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