Altitude 2m a.s.l
Maybe its best to solo this one... © Annette H.
The Main Crag is a a low but steep bluff of natural limestone in a pleasant setting on the west-facing side of the southern point of Hope's Nose which has liberated a good set of short routes in the HS - E2 range and some excellent bouldering/solos. The limestone is generally good quality and sound, except for the top-out zone where a bit of care is required in some places. It is an important location in the Global Geopark and quite justifiably is free of fixed and/or drilled gear. Adequate stake belays to climb all the listed routes were in place in 2017, just east of the footpath which runs along the crest. Rigging a static line off the stakes is a good tactic to enable belaying from the top of the rock face and a faster descent on completion. Most of the pitches can be climbed with a small rack of wires and cams and a single/full rope can be used in most cases on the 'straight-up' lines. The upward boulder problems get very highball and, whilst the moves are generally easier high up, a good mat (or three) and a spotter are advisable. Several of the described routes can also have the initial sequences bouldered out or can be wholly soloed; in fact, routes and boulder problems blur to an extent, the descriptions reflect the described style of the first ascentionists. Those soloing to the top should consider checking that the top-out holds are clear of soil and loose rock. The crag catches the sun from early afternoon onwards & is sheltered from an easterly wind.
The northern quarry of Hope's Nose Point has quite a lot of exposed rock but disappoints in potential for both bouldering and climbs. Three mini-trad lines on the small buttress at the west end have good moves on interesting rock. One 'nut-job' climb tackles thes southface. For geological types, the interesting caves and fissures at the seaward end are worth a look.
Notes with the climbs presume possession of the 2018 CC South Devon guide book so only expect supplementary notes, unless the line is a new addition.
Park on Ilsham Marine Drive and follow the main path down onto the headland. Carry straight on for the quarry at Hope's Nose Point but fork right for the crag. Head down a grassy coastal slope towards the southern point of Hope's Nose and the crag comes into view on the right-hand side. A slippery start gives access to the crag.
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