Altitude 2m a.s.l
Maybe its best to solo this one... © Annette H.
The Main Crag is a a low but steep bluff of natural limestone in a pleasant setting on the west-facing side of the southern point of Hope's Nose which has liberated a good set of short routes in the HS - E2 range and some excellent bouldering/solos. The limestone is generally good quality and sound, except for the top-out zone where a bit of care is required in some places. It is an important location in the Global Geopark and quite justifiably is free of fixed and/or drilled gear. Adequate stake belays to climb all the listed routes were in place in 2017, just east of the footpath which runs along the crest. Rigging a static line off the stakes is a good tactic to enable belaying from the top of the rock face and a faster descent on completion. Most of the pitches can be climbed with a small rack of wires & cams and a single/full rope can be used in most cases on the 'straight-up' lines. The upward boulder problems get very highball and, whilst the moves are generally easier high up, a good mat (or three) and a spotter are advisable. Several of the described routes can also have the initial sequences bouldered out or can be wholly soloed; in fact, routes and boulder problems blur to an extent, the descritions reflect the described style of the first ascentionists. Those soloing to the top should consider checking that the top-out holds are clear of soil and loose rock. The crag catches the sun from early afternoon onwards & is sheltered from an easterly wind.
The Northern Quarry of Hope's Nose has quite a lot of exposed rock but disappoints in potential for both bouldering and climbs. Three mini-trad. lines on the small buttress at the west end have good moves on interesting rock. One 'nut-job' climb tackles the south face... For geological types, the interesting caves and fissures at the seaward end are worth a look.
Notes with the climbs presume posession of the 2018 CC South Devon guide book so only expect supplementary notes, unless the line is a new addition.
For the Main Crag, approach from the main Hope's Nose parking area on Ilsham Marine Drive - 5 mins. walk. Follow the main path down the hill and bear rightwards towards the south-facing bay; the crag soon comes into view at the left end of the bay (facing out).
For the Northern Quarry, follow the fishermen's path down towards the north-eastern point.
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