Crag features

The Main Crag is a a low but steep bluff of natural limestone in a pleasant setting on the west-facing side of the southern point of Hope's Nose which has liberated a good set of short routes in the HS - E2 range and some excellent bouldering/solos. The limestone is generally good quality and sound, except for the top-out zone where a bit of care is required in some places. It is an important location in the Global Geopark and quite justifiably is free of fixed and/or drilled gear. Adequate stake belays to climb all the listed routes were in place in 2017, just east of the footpath which runs along the crest. Rigging a static line off the stakes is a good tactic to enable belaying from the top of the rock face and a faster descent on completion. Most of the pitches can be climbed with a small rack of wires and cams and a single/full rope can be used in most cases on the 'straight-up' lines. The upward boulder problems get very highball and, whilst the moves are generally easier high up, a good mat (or three) and a spotter are advisable. Several of the described routes can also have the initial sequences bouldered out or can be wholly soloed; in fact, routes and boulder problems blur to an extent, the descriptions reflect the described style of the first ascentionists. Those soloing to the top should consider checking that the top-out holds are clear of soil and loose rock. The crag catches the sun from early afternoon onwards & is sheltered from an easterly wind.

The northern quarry of Hope's Nose Point has quite a lot of exposed rock but disappoints in potential for both bouldering and climbs. Three mini-trad lines on the small buttress at the west end have good moves on interesting rock.  One 'nut-job' climb tackles thes southface. For geological types, the interesting caves and fissures at the seaward end are worth a look.

Notes with the climbs presume possession of the 2018 CC South Devon guide book so only expect supplementary notes, unless the line is a new addition.

The bouldering is covered in the Torquay Bouldering guide: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Vm6WZUh_AsUYaOy28XvonaaX-PfOWIZ-/view?usp=sharing