UKC Logbook - 'The Big Fat Texan on the Corner'

20m.

Rockfax Description
The centre of the wall left of the big corner. Originally it was climbed direct, but now holds on the right are used. At least 6a+ if you go direct. The bolts to the left are the decommissioned The Lithuanian to the Left, 6b originally climbed as an E3. © Rockfax

FA. Dave Simmonite 1993.

Ticklists

Peak limestone north graded list - sport , The Horseshoe Top 15 Challenge , Horseshoe Star Quality

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User	Date		Notes
Hannah Scott	12 May, 2022	Show βeta βeta: Absolute shocker. My mate led this, I nearly got squished by a HUGE block he knocked off between clips 6 and 7. Narrowly missed it, rock landed and smashed onto the rope, ripped it through to the core. Still lots of loose rock between these clips. V sketchy route, do not recommend!!	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Absolute shocker. My mate led this, I nearly got squished by a HUGE block he knocked off between clips 6 and 7. Narrowly missed it, rock landed and smashed onto the rope, ripped it through to the core. Still lots of loose rock between these clips. V sketchy route, do not recommend!!
JamesPellington	9 Sep, 2019	Show βeta βeta: Climbed the left variation without using any of the crack or flakes on the right. Took a huge hold off just below the good left flakey sidepull just short of halfway up. Left variation definitely much harder than 6a (possibly harder again now, sorry!)
Show beta βeta: Climbed the left variation without using any of the crack or flakes on the right. Took a huge hold off just below the good left flakey sidepull just short of halfway up. Left variation definitely much harder than 6a (possibly harder again now, sorry!)
bumblebum	31 Jul, 2007	Show βeta βeta: pulled large hold off when clipping last bolt, and took a massive fall, wooo to air time :)	βeta?
Show beta βeta: pulled large hold off when clipping last bolt, and took a massive fall, wooo to air time :)
Richard 261	24 Jun, 2007	Show βeta βeta: Second time I've done it and it seems a bit harder than 6a (unless you wander right, almost into 'Sumo' territory) at the crux. Once you're into the flakes and side pulls it's a laugh.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Second time I've done it and it seems a bit harder than 6a (unless you wander right, almost into 'Sumo' territory) at the crux. Once you're into the flakes and side pulls it's a laugh.
Tris	1 Nov, 2006	Show βeta βeta: Did the Austin Powers variation to avoid the holds on the right, quite sustained climbing	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Did the Austin Powers variation to avoid the holds on the right, quite sustained climbing
lithos	10 Aug, 2006	Show βeta βeta: excellent moves on great holds that keep coming. 6a is fair, but it felt very intimidating to me, go for it and the holds all appear. Nice.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: excellent moves on great holds that keep coming. 6a is fair, but it felt very intimidating to me, go for it and the holds all appear. Nice.
Souljah	10 Aug, 2005	Show βeta βeta: Some awkward bolt possitions, good moves though.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Some awkward bolt possitions, good moves though.
Alan James - Rockfax	15 Sep, 2003	Show βeta βeta: The name 'Austin, Texas' springs to mind.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: The name 'Austin, Texas' springs to mind.
Alan James - Rockfax	21 Jul, 2003	Show βeta βeta: Tried the direct version after doing the original route. It may be something to do with the way the route has 'weathered' up but just getting onto the direct version now seems very artificial especially with the new route to the left. Actually starting up Austin Powers and then moving right into Texan might provide a reasonable version of the direct on Texan.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Tried the direct version after doing the original route. It may be something to do with the way the route has 'weathered' up but just getting onto the direct version now seems very artificial especially with the new route to the left. Actually starting up Austin Powers and then moving right into Texan might provide a reasonable version of the direct on Texan.