UKC

Climbs 63
Rocktype Sandstone (soft)
Altitude 8m a.s.l
Faces all

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Beach bouldering at Gullane. Sand and broken glass in holds, but a nice sunset. © digiphotoneil

Crag features

Don't use any hard/wire brushes and avoid climbing after heavy rainfall - Climbing on wet soft sandstone destroys it!

A photo-topo style guide now exists, detailing all climbs, here - gum.co/NsVA

There are three areas - Hummell rocks proper is the a first outcrop with a couple of large boulders and smaller ones around, some big enough to be climbed. King's Chair is the head of this mini-cliff outcrop and can be easily identified by the steep overhang on its north west side. The smaller boulder directly North of this is the 'Waterboy'. Its bottom is covered at high tide.

Passed this, further West, is a second, small beach with a long vertical wall - 'Hummell wall'. This wall has some potential for easy highballs or mini-routes, but most of its lower part is too soft and very sandy.

Directly behind it (access around the north sea-ward side) lays the third area, a small alley with some potential for eliminates ('the Alley').

A bouldering mat will be handy to climb the King's chair but the rest of the landings are fairly safe.

The rock can be quite sandy so bring a GENTLE DUST BRUSH to clean off the holds (especially after kids have done sand battles).

Video here:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q3yxosaJ5oY

*NOTE* - contrary to the "Definitive Guide", the landings for Forsaken and Unforsaken on the King's Chair are very much tidal, as is the Honeycombe Boulder - don't go expecting just a wet pad, it might float out to sea.

Approach notes

Head for Gullane Bay car park (there is a charge to park here from late spring to early autumn). From the car park head to the beach. Follow the beach toward the West, you will see the boulders.

Yep, sand level is back to where it was when I first climbed Àrd-ealain and an t-Sliseag so grades are proper at the moment! Watch your landings!
Maragmhòraix - 30/Mar/24
No sand left this year at the lower tier of Hummel Wall. The very bottom of the wall is now over uncovered native rock; in the mid-part (red-roof and above) the sea deposited large pebbles/small rocks. I don't think it's going to be climbable without a crashpad anytime soon.
efes - 24/Mar/24
Oops, didn't mean to post two almost identical comments.
DaveHK - 18/Jun/23
Garbage. Crap rock, poor problems, not even worth a visit if you're in the area.
DaveHK - 17/Jun/23
Utter garbage, crap rock and poor problems, not even worth a visit if you're in the area. Just go and enjoy the nice beach without climbing.
DaveHK - 17/Jun/23
Sand level a bit high this year (April 2020). Àrd-ealain is doable as 7a sit-start but it is not really possible to climb Coup de grâce. I've collected my info together here: https://pierreboulderingblog.blogspot.com/search/label/Hummell
Maragmhòraix - 11/May/22
Quite a few low level footholds have had sand thrown on them. On Hummell Wall.
Nick_Scots - 02/Sep/21
Update 20 September 2020 - The sand level has gone up very high last Winter (2019-20), so many sit-starts at the main wall have almost disappeared, e.g. An t-Sliseag or Àrd-ealain. So the grades are very soft but so are the landings - no mats required! :) Remember, take it easy with the brushing!!!
Maragmhòraix - 21/Sep/20
Update 24 June 2019 - The sand level is much lower below the main wall than it was in 2017, making the climbs more challenging - the potential for bad landings is bigger and you can't dust off the upper holds prior to ascent anymore. But I repeated an t-Sliseag, Àrd-ealain and the overhang lip traverse and they're definitely the best climbs for me here (with the mini-roof). Videos from 2017: Lip traverse: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pL-0Nf0VIzA An t-sliseag: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fsWWUFktVCE
Maragmhòraix - 24/Jun/19
My pleasure ;-) I think it's a nice local venue.
Maragmhòraix - 21/Sep/14
Psyched to try the new routes! Cheers for cleaning this page up man!
daftendirekt - 20/Sep/14
Very nice location . Pity the rock is so sandy and the boulders so small.
Maragmhòraix - 07/Aug/14
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