Climbs 363
Rocktype Sandstone (hard)
Altitude 129m a.s.l
Faces E

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Chris high on the classic Give Me Light V1 © MorganPreece

Crag features

The closest you will get to Font in the Wye Valley, with the exception of 3 Rocks just down the road in the Forest of Dean.

The problem is, it is officially banned by the landowner. There have been reports recently (2023) of wildcamping and loud groups (with music) and dogs bouldering here. Which obviously doesn't help the access situation.

After an unofficial talk with a rep of the estate, please follow these handful of respectful actions, in order not to really get the landowners back up:

- Please do not use chalk here. Or at least clean it up or use clear chalk (I am trying to find a good supplier of this, watch this space!)

- Please do not use loudspeakers

- Keep the noise down, noise will draw attention from the landowners

- Do not take your dogs here

- The area is habitat for many rare species of plants, re-wilding is going on here. Careful where you stand please!

- Take home at least 1 bit of litter

- Do not park in the bus turn circle. Many tourists do but we know better :)

Line of smallish grit-like sandstone-conglomerate crags and freestanding boulders, certainly worth a look, but be aware of access problems. Rarely busy. Single pitch routes to 15 metres. A map of boulders is a must, as you will quickly find yourself in a 'whole World of bracken and bramble pain', especially in Summer!

Martin Crockers' 'The Sandstone Outcrops of the Forest of Dean' (Climbers' Club, 2006) is definitive for the main crag.

Topo for Boulder Problems can be found here: and here Bouldering Circuits for Huntsham

Many routes cannot be protected. Crocker suggests a top-rope then solo ethic, but please rig to avoid eroding the edges.

Access Banned

The landowner has informed the BMC that they do not permit climbing on the sections of crag which are not mapped as open access (i.e. the whole crag with the exception of the West Crag). The area contains well used public footpaths (which pass through the crags), but deer stalking takes place between November and March. If you are asked to leave by Estate representatives during this period it woud be wise to do so. Please report any access difficulties to the BMC.

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